Trailblazer Guide Books

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TREKKING STYLES

There are three main ‘styles’ of trekking, each of which has pros and cons, but
your choice will depend on your destination, budget, time available and per-
sonal preferences. There is no better or worse style, in fact you might find your-
self combining styles in some destinations to provide a broader experience.

Fully independent trekking or independent teahouse trekking

For many, the idea of finding one’s own way and living off the land is what the
mountains are all about. To be completely free to plan your day, to have all your
gear on your back, and to interact one-on-one with locals is a liberating experi-
ence. Due to the nature of independent trekking it is normally a good idea to
trek with a friend or in a small group of up to four for safety – larger groups
tend to find it difficult to secure accommodation. Being an independent trekker
doesn’t mean to say that you cannot have a porter or a porter/guide. The intro-
duction of the TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) has made this
option a little more complicated, but it is still possible to employ a local for
almost any period of time, which can make tricky navigation and strenuous
sections considerably easier.

Most independent trekkers prefer to trek the main routes of the Annapurna,
Everest and Langtang regions as they offer a broad spectrum of teahouse
accommodation to suit every budget, and a standardised menu. Trails in these
areas are well marked and many of the local people speak enough of a range of
languages that the individual can get by with basic Nepali. Even though you
may walk on your own, or with a local porter, it is in fact very rare that you will
find yourself without company, especially in the evenings when you sit in the
teahouse communal dining room. The main trails are normally busy with local
traffic so if you carry a guide and map it is unlikely that you’ll take a serious
wrong turn, although getting a little lost is almost inevitable.

Independent trekking is also the cheapest way to explore the mountains so
it is popular with budget conscious travellers. Expect to pay anything from
US$1.50-15.00 a night for a bed depending on room type, teahouse location,
and season demand (in extreme cases teahouse owners have been known to
auction beds!). Food per day will average from US$5-6 for Nepali fare, which
is normally dhal bhat (rice, vegetable curry and lentil soup), to US$10-14 for
three western meals. You should probably also budget for the occasional hot
shower (US$1-2) and battery re-charge (roughly US$4 per hour). If you do
employ a local porter or porter/guide, you will probably have to pay US$6-10
(plus meals) a day depending on the region and trail difficulty.

There are a few drawbacks to independent trekking: dealing with altitude
and health problems on your own, logistical challenges, communication issues
and safety concerns. None of these are insurmountable but they do need to be
taken seriously both before and during your trek. Altitude and health problems
are best monitored and dealt with as part of a ‘buddy system’ – that is, you and
your trekking companion look after each other (for more details, see p61).

There are also some potential logistical issues in high season: the most
common is that many teahouses are booked in advance by organised trekking
groups and you may find getting a room, or even floor space to sleep on, diffi-
cult and/or expensive. It is therefore best to start trekking before or just after the
main rush of tourists (see pp13-5). It’s a good idea to be able to speak basic
Nepali on the trail to find your way, order food and drinks, and get to know the
locals, which is after all one of the main advantages to independent trekking.

If this is going to be your first visit to the Himalaya then the independent
option probably isn’t the best style to kick off your adventures, unless you
really are the ultimate mountain goat and you stay on the main trails.
Independent trekking in remote wilderness areas is far more suited to trekkers
who have already learnt how their body deals with altitude, developed some
knowledge of Nepali and the various customs of mountain communities, and
have a good knowledge of Himalayan terrain and navigation.

Teahouse trekking with a guide

Recent years have seen a dramatic increase in both the number and quality of
teahouses on the main trails. For example, Namche in the Everest Region now
boasts 24-hour electricity, a laundrette, multiple Internet cafés, bakeries, and all
the trappings of Thamel (the tourist district in Kathmandu) but at 3500m! It is
no surprise therefore that teahouse trekking has become incredibly popular.

The convenience of the main trekking routes in Everest, Annapurna and
Langtang is a major drawcard for tens of thousands of trekkers every year. The
subsequent level of investment by local communities in these regions is extraor-
dinary compared to the level of poverty elsewhere in the Himalaya. Large tea-
houses with comfortable communal dining rooms, private bedrooms (some with
en-suite bathrooms) with mattresses and bedding, extensive menus or speciality
restaurants and bakeries can make your trek a very comfortable experience.
Commercial trekking companies from all over the world sell organised walking
holidays using these teahouses and a local guide agency, and they’re flexible
enough to suit almost any fitness and experience level.

Guides are normally hired through a trekking agency in Kathmandu or
Pokhara, as professional registration is a necessary qualification to lead groups
within National Parks. It is important to make sure your guide has been to, or
preferably comes from, the area that you want to trek – it is surprising how
many guides have only trekked a few trails. The role of a guide can encompass
a great many activities. Apart from being the person who escorts you along the
trail, they often explain flora, fauna, customs, culture and history. A guide may
also manage any porters (should you only want to carry a small pack), ensure
your accommodation is booked, transport is confirmed, and that the food is well
prepared; in fact your guide will probably become your personal assistant, man-
Friday, guardian, and best friend. For this reason most good guides are nor-
mally snapped up by the bigger agencies and accompany groups booked by
overseas trekking companies.

There are no major drawbacks to this style of trekking, however there are a
few issues that people regularly complain about. One is that teahouses that
accept larger groups can be very noisy at night; for most it’s tougher to sleep at
altitude so anything that disrupts sleep is irritating. Another involves the deci-
sions that your guide makes without consultation, like where to stay, or route
options. Make sure you have a clear understanding of who makes which deci-
sions. Small groups trekking with a guide may find it difficult to secure rooms
or even meals in some teahouses that devote themselves to larger, more profit-
able parties. If you are a woman trekking alone with a guide then be aware that
even simple acts can be misconstrued as a proposition (see Trekking as a Single
Female, p50).

Booking a trek through an overseas operator means you don’t get to have
any choice of guide, but you do have the reassurance that they are probably
going to be excellent and if not, you have recourse to complain. The size of
group that you will be trekking with becomes important when you choose a
‘packaged trek’. Some companies are still in the habit of sending over twenty
trekkers into the hills with a single guide and a few porters, this is both irrespon-
sible and a good way to have a bad holiday. A group size of twelve to fourteen
is normally considered a ‘manageable maximum’ and you’ll still get the oppor-
tunity to chat with your guide and spend time with any crew that they might
hire.

One main advantage of hiring your own guide and teahouse trekking is that
you can control your costs and stay within a budget that would be considerably
less than booking with a big travel company. The logistical convenience of hav-
ing someone with local knowledge handling routine details like where to stay,
negotiating prices, and route directions is a great peace of mind. The safety and
security of local knowledge should not be underestimated, nor should the abil-
ity to communicate to your heart’s content through your guide’s interpreting.
Finally, the chance to build a friendship with someone is perhaps the most
remembered feature of any trekking holiday. You might forget the name of the
mountains you’ll photograph, but you’ll never forget your guide.

Trekking with a camping crew

The most flexible, comfortable, and hygienic way to explore the Himalaya is on
a camping trek. To have unrestricted access to trails, viewpoints, and passes you
need to be self-sufficient, with the support of a team of experienced staff. For
many trekkers their first trip to Nepal will be teahouse based, but the lure of
what lies beyond the main trails is so strong they return for a camping trek,
often to the more remote areas.

Trekking in Nepal was initially exclusively camping based so there is a
substantial experience pool that means even the first-time camper will be com-
fortable and well looked after. Each morning you will be woken with a mug of
tea delivered by a smiling sherpa (as opposed to Sherpas, the famous ethnic
group from the Everest Region), followed by a bowl of water to wash your face.
Breakfast is preferably served al-fresco in the morning sun as your crew packs
up the camp. At some point along the day’s trail your cook will have prepared
a lunch for you at a scenic spot before you complete your journey to the next
campsite and an extensive dinner menu. Shower, toilet and dining tents with
tables and chairs complete your campsite and comfort comes courtesy of a foam
mattress and pillow (usually an optional extra). In fact, camping in Nepal is
frequently more comfortable and less crowded than teahouses.

Nearly any remote or exploratory trek will be camping based as a group
needs to have sherpas and crew available to help cross passes and break trail.
The roles of various crew members are normally well-defined: the guide (or
sirdar) is in charge; the sherpas look after clients on the trail, serve meals and
make/break camp; the cook and kitchen staff prepare meals and wash dishes for
the group, while the porters carry everything else. Normally, a guide discour-
ages trekkers from becoming too friendly with the crew as companies are para-
noid they might lose your future business to prospecting staff.

With the increasing popularity of teahouse trekking, companies that special-
ise in camping treks are becoming more competitive so it is important to check
the details of your trek before you depart. The two most common ways companies
cut costs are: firstly, increasing the amount of load the porters carry and not pro-
viding them with necessary clothing and equipment (see the International Porter
Protection Group,  www.ippg.net for how you should care for your porters and
your obligations towards them); secondly, either the agency or the cook reduces
the money dedicated to your food allowance. It is important that the group leader
should keep an eye on the quantity and quality of food stocks.

The obvious drawbacks to camping-style treks are perceived inconvenience
and potentially having to share a tent with someone you would rather not sleep
next to. To solve both issues research is necessary. Camping really is more
convenient than teahouses on the condition that you have a slightly flexible
itinerary, so you can ensure washing and relaxing time for all, especially when
the weather is good. Almost all camping groups offer single occupancy tents but
you normally have to specify when you book, and you should always check the
terms and conditions.

For many, these drawbacks are easily mitigated and, in fact, are over-
whelmed by the advantages of camping-style treks. Being able to choose your
own path and rest spots offers a level of itinerary customisation that not even
teahouses in the most popular regions can compete with. The main benefit
however, is being able to explore remoter regions away from the main trails and
meet some of the inhabitants of the wild Himalaya. It is hard to believe that
there are still many villagers who have never seen a tourist, and communities
that greet you as an honoured guest and not an opportunity to make another
buck. Away from the main routes is where you’ll most likely see many of the
species for which the Himalaya is famous: red panda, black bear, musk deer,
snow leopard and a multitude of birds.

For many trekkers and trek leaders, camping-style treks are their favourite
method of exploring Nepal; they often say that their experience feels more
genuine. Camping brings you closer to nature, and the camaraderie built around
a campfire often outlasts that of a teahouse trek.

For a list of trekking agencies in Nepal see pp246-9.