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OVERTON HILL TO FOX HILL [MAPS 1-10]

Overview
This first 16&frac12-mile/26.3km stage of the Ridgeway includes many interesting sights but most of them are before Ogbourne St George. By comparison, thereafter, it can seem a bit of a slog in parts, especially the last section from Liddington Hill to Fox Hill.

The full length of this stage will leave you tired after your first day but you'll have to push on to Bishopstone to find accommodation. Alternatively you could stay at Ogbourne St George which is only 9 miles/14.5km from the start of the Ridgeway.

It would make an easy first day's walking and would also allow time to investigate the Fyfield Down National Nature Reserve and take a long break at Barbury Castle.

Route
There are several alternative starts to the Ridgeway that are all more interesting than the official one. It just depends how serious you are about following every step of the real path.

The official, but rather uninspiring, starting point is at the side of the Beckhampton to Marlborough road (the A4) and if you've taken Alternative start route A you will arrive here. However, you soon gain enough height on the broad track on Overton Hill to lose the sight and noise of the busy road. It's at this point that Alternative start route C joins the Ridgeway from the left.

In clear weather there are excellent views west to the obelisk monument on Cherhill Hill, 5 miles/8km away. It was built on an Iron Age hillfort in 1845/6 in memory of Sir William Petty, the 17th-century economist. Windmill Hill, 2½ miles/4km to the west, is another easily spotted landmark. After the track levels out, you'll arrive at the Green St junction (Map 2).

If you have taken Alternative start route B from Avebury you will join the Ridgeway from the left, while to the right is a gate leading into Fyfield Down NNR. Up here it's exposed to the elements with few trees or bushes to shelter you and the walking is mainly level on a broad, grassy track with numerous byways and bridleways joining from both sides.

When you get to the junction (Map 3) where the Broad Hinton to Marlborough road crosses the Ridgeway you'll have the opportunity to see the Hackpen White Horse cut into the chalk of the hillside. You can't see it from the track as you are above it so you'll need to make a slight diversion.

It is not an ancient White Horse - this one was cut into Hackpen Hill in 1838 - so don't feel the steep detour is obligatory, especially as you will be seeing the original white horse at White Horse Hill, further along the Ridgeway.

This section of the Ridgeway path is also part of the White Horse Trail, a 90-mile circular route connecting eight white horses in Wiltshire.

At the foot of Barbury Castle (Map 4) the ‘Ridgeway Route For Vehicles’ continues straight ahead across the road but walkers, cyclists and horses can follow the steep grassy slopes up onto the top of Barbury Castle itself. Apart from this one there are two more Iron Age forts on the Ridgeway (Liddington Castle and Uffington Castle), but this is the only one that the path cuts directly through.

The 11-acre fort is ringed by double ramparts and deep ditches with entrances at both ends through which the Ridgeway passes. Some Iron Age finds from the castle are on display at Devizes Museum. Its defensive position is indisputable and this guaranteed its importance long after the Iron Age finished.

In fact the name ‘Barbury’ is thought to come from the Old English name, ‘Bera’, after the Saxon chief who controlled the castle around ad550. Even as late as the Second World War it was being used as a potentially defensive position by allied troops.

The views from up here on a clear day are fantastic and it's a popular place at weekends with walkers, cyclists and horseriders. On some weekends it's also home to the White Horse Kite Fliers.

You might wonder how all the people managed to get up here but when you get to the other side of the castle you'll understand. There you'll find a large car park, picnic tables, public toilets, a café and the road north to Wroughton, 3½ miles/6km away. Castle Café (tel 01793 845346) is open Mon-Fri 10am to dusk, Sat & Sun 9am to dusk in the summer; weekends only in the winter.

They serve tea (£1), coffee (£1.20), ice creams, snacks and meals: the cooked breakfast for £4.50 is well worth it, but there's also the mega-breakfast for £6.50 if you're really, really hungry. Camping is also available here for £10 per person including breakfast; they have toilets and are hoping to have showers by early 2009.

When the weather is good the walking on Smeathe's Ridge (Map 5) makes for some of the most enjoyable parts of this stage. The soft grass under foot makes walking easy and you can daydream as you walk.

Although the official path doesn't go into Ogbourne St George you can follow the signposted footpath, about half a mile/1km, into this attractive village if you want to stop here.

OGBOURNE ST GEORGE [See map p100]

The name of this village refers to the river Og (Map 6) and the name of its church, St George's. A mile or so south of here is the village of Ogbourne St Andrew, named in the same way.

Ogbourne St George is a pretty-enough village but unless you are planning to stay the night, there really isn't much point making the detour. There are no shops but there are three decent places to stay, two good places to eat, and there's also a campsite nearby.

The buses calling here are Stagecoach's Nos 70 & 71, which operate between Swindon and Marlborough and stop in the village, and Wilts & Dorset Buses' No 95 between Pewsey and Swindon which stop on the A346 just outside the village.

If you need a taxi, call one of the firms in Marlborough.

Where to stay, eat and drink
The Inn with the Well (tel 01672 841445, www.theinnwiththewell.co.uk; 2D/3T/ 1F, food Mon-Sat noon-2pm & 6.30-9pm, Sun noon-2pm) is a deservedly popular place with both locals and people travelling from the surrounding area.

They serve a range of real ales including Wadworth 6X. Their bar menu includes various kinds of ploughman's for £5.75 and ham, egg and chips for £6.75. The varied restaurant menu has dishes such as balti chicken for £8.95 or venison casserole for £9.95. B&B accommodation here is in en suite double/twin rooms from £60, or £50.50-52.50 if you are on your own. The family room costs from £80.

A couple of minutes away is The Sanctuary (tel 01672 841473, www.the-sanctuary.biz; 1D or T/1F), a well-run, friendly B&B that's used to walkers. They serve large breakfasts to set you up for the day. The double/twin is en suite and the family room has a private bathroom next door but each costs from £60; the single occupancy rate is from £45. They now have their own chickens so your breakfast eggs will be as fresh as possible.

Surprisingly for such a small village, there is a hotel: Parklands Hotel (tel 01672 841555, www.parklandshoteluk.co.uk; 6D/6D or T) has modern en suite rooms starting at £85 (single occupancy from £70).

The restaurant here, Bentley's (Mon-Sat noon-2pm & 6.30-8.30pm, Sun noon-2pm & 6.30-8pm) changes its menu regularly. It may include tuna steak seared with ginger, honey and soy sauce: you can probably have a two-course lunch for about £14 and an evening meal for about £17. You need to book in advance for both lunch and dinner but they are used to walkers and don't have a strict dress code.

Campers should head for Foxlynch (tel 01672 841307; 1T, D or F). It costs £5 per person to camp here including use of a toilet and shower. Breakfast (£5) is also available if requested in advance.

They also offer B&B in a centrally heated bunkroom with an en suite bathroom. The bunkroom has a sofa bed and a bunk bed so up to four can sleep here. It's £20 per person, including breakfast though it must be booked in advance.

Although Foxlynch is not quite in the village, it's only about five minutes' walk away and, better than that, it's only 750m from the Ridgeway: for the most direct route, see Map 6.

The official path skirts around the south of the village on shady farm tracks. You get occasional glimpses of Ogbourne St George through the trees on your left and you soon arrive in the hamlet of Southend (Map 6). This must rate as one of the most picturesque collections of cottages anywhere and is so perfect it's almost twee.

Apart from the few buildings at Barbury Castle, this is the most heavily built-up area you have passed through since setting off.

After the hamlet you start a steady climb up a stony track closed in by trees and bushes and come to pass between the hefty stone abutments of an old railway bridge which was once the route of the Midland and South Western Junction Railway.

This section opened in the 1880s but has long since disappeared. It linked Swindon and Chiseldon, to the north, with Marlborough, to the south. It's now been developed into the Chiseldon & Marlborough Railway Path and is popular but muddy.

Much later on when you arrive at the crossroads with the reservoir (Map 7) on the left corner that looks like a fortified concrete bunker, there is the opportunity to visit the former village of Snap. A small farming community existed on this site for hundreds of years until the late 19th century when farming became less economically viable owing to cheap imports and spare land was bought up by wealthy local landowners for use as sheep-grazing.

Most of the population left the village to find work elsewhere and by the early 20th century the village was empty. To get there turn right and follow the track straight on for about half a mile/1km. Since being abandoned, the village has all but disappeared into the landscape, so unless you have plenty of time…

The ‘Snap crossroads’ is worth noting because just a short way down the track to the left is the radio mast that you'll probably have seen by now. If you haven't it will certainly be a prominent landmark every time you do look back, all the way to Liddington Castle.

When you eventually reach Liddington Castle (Map 9) you'll get views of the M4 over to the north-east and if you turn around you'll see the aforementioned radio mast, now on the horizon behind you.

The Ridgeway does not actually go through Liddington Castle so if you'd like to visit follow the signpost that directs you along the fence line rather than going directly to the castle; it's about 500m. The trig point on top of the castle displays a height of 277m and the hill is a popular launch site for paragliders.

After descending Liddington Hill and joining the fast B4192 you'll have the possibility of walking to Liddington; though it is only worth going if you want a drink or meal, or to get a bus. To get there simply continue down the B4192 for about half a mile/1km, crossing the M4 en route.

LIDDINGTON

The Village Inn (tel 01793 790314; food Mon-Sat 11.30am-1.45pm & 6.30-8.45pm, Sun noon-2pm & 7-8.45pm) provides a friendly focus for the village and is usually busy. This creeper-clad inn was built in the late 19th century and was originally called The Bell. They serve Arkell's ales and their excellent food keeps the place full, particularly at weekends.

There are two bus stops in this village. Thamesdown's No 46 goes to Fox Hill, Marlborough and Swindon from the stop at Spinney Close. This is also the stop for RH Transport's X47 service to Fox Hill. You can also get a bus to Marlborough or Swindon (Thamesdown's No 48) from the stop opposite the Village Inn; see pp42-5 for further details.

After enduring a stretch of road walking you must cross the bridge over the M4. You'll be surprised just how noisy and smelly it is, and although the fumes disappear quickly when you reach the other side, the noise will stay with you all the way to the Shepherds Rest pub at the end of this stage.

There is still about 700m of walking to go between the bridge and the pub in Fox Hill but it's all on a neat grassy verge along the edge of the grounds of The Liddington (tel 01793 791000, www.theliddington.co.uk; 198D) – a hotel and conference centre aimed mainly at the corporate sector.

Their room rates are from £100 for a double (£85 if you're on your own) but special offers for online bookings are often available through their website. Their restaurant is open daily noon-1.30pm & 7-9pm and bar snacks are available 9-10pm. I wonder if any Ridgeway walkers have ever stayed there?

At the time of writing, the Shepherds Rest (www.shepherds-rest.co.uk), on the crossroads at Foxhill, was under new ownership and closed. In the past it was a welcome sight for walkers, especially those who had started the day at Avebury. The landlord was ‘walker-friendly’ and opened the bar daily from 11am-11pm. Food was served daily noon-9pm.

Hopefully the new owners will carry on serving up the hearty meals and selection of real ales that the previous landlord did as this is the only pub directly on the western part of the Ridgeway.

Thamesdown's Nos 46 & 48 buses call here as does RH Transport's X47 service.