Trailblazer Guide Books

Worth watching out for.
 - John Cleare

ACCOMMODATION

The South Downs lie in a populous area so there are plenty of villages and towns within easy reach of the Way, most of which offer accommodation for the walker. However, the Way generally follows the high ground along the top of the South Downs escarpment while the villages lie at the foot of the hills. This tends to leave the walker with a small detour to reach a bed at the end of each day. Bear this in mind when calculating times and distances from the maps in Part 4. As a general rule it is a good idea to allow an extra hour each day for the walk to and from your accommodation.

Camping
Unfortunately, there is little to no opportunity for wild camping on the South Downs so campers will have to rely on organised campsites of which there are few. Refer to the itinerary chart for campers on p26 to organise a schedule. Most of these campsites charge from £5 per camper. Some of the more complex, organised sites have showers and washing facilities while others are merely a place to pitch a tent in the grass.

It is difficult to arrange a camping trip along the length of the Downs without being forced into more solid accommodation for one or two nights. Those who have the urge to camp in greater isolation where there is no recognised site may find it worthwhile asking a landowner for permission to set up camp.

Those who do camp will certainly appreciate the experience: the pampered comforts of a bed and breakfast are outweighed by the chance to sleep under the stars and be woken by the sun, should it happen to be showing.

Hostels and camping barns
There are just four youth hostels within easy reach of the Way and all are between Arundel and Alfriston. However, two new hostels should be open in East Sussex, in Lewes and Eastbourne, by 2010.

Despite the name, anybody of any age can join the YHA. This can be done at any hostel or by contacting the Youth Hostels Association of England and Wales (tel 01629-592700, www.yha.org.uk). The cost of a year's membership is £15.95 per year (�9.95 for anyone under 26). Having secured your membership, youth hostels are easy to book, either online or by ringing each individual hostel separately.

Each hostel has a drying room, shower and a fully equipped kitchen. Telscombe (see p146) is self-catering only but both it and Truleigh Hill (see p132) have a shop selling basic groceries. The others offer breakfast, a packed lunch and an evening meal. The Arundel hostel has good entertainment facilities as well as internet access; Alfriston also has the latter.

There is an independent hostel located near East Meon called Wetherdown Hostel (p85) and two camping barns: the first, which is run by the National Trust, is near Bignor Hill and has the charming name of Gumber Bothy (p107); the other is at the Foxhole Campsite near Exceat (p160).

Bed and breakfast
Some B&Bs can be quite luxurious and come at a price but in our experience all the Downs walker really wants is a warm bed and a hot bath. For this reason most of the B&Bs listed in this guide are recommended because of their usefulness to the walker and convenience to the Way, not for how many stars the tourist board has awarded them.

Bed and breakfast owners are often proud to boast that all rooms are en suite. This enthusiasm for private facilities has led proprietors to squeeze a cramped shower and loo cubicle into the last spare corner of the bedroom. Not having an en suite room is sometimes preferable as you may get sole use of a bathroom across the corridor and a hot bath is just what you need after a day's walking - and you will also probably save a few pounds.

You may find it hard to find establishments with single rooms. Twin rooms and double rooms are often confused but a twin room usually comprises two single beds which can either be pushed together for a couple or kept separate. A double room has one double bed. Family rooms are for three or more people and usually consist of a double bed and a single or three single beds.

Most B&Bs do of course provide a hefty cooked breakfast as part of the rate though some now also offer a lighter continental-style breakfast. Some also provide a packed lunch or an evening meal but you will need to give them advance warning and there will be an extra charge. Most B&Bs, however, are close enough to a pub or restaurant but if not the owner may give you a lift to and from the nearest eating place.

Rates Rates B&Bs in this guide vary from around £40 for two sharing a room and for the most basic accommodation to over £70 for the most luxurious, en suite B&Bs in this guide vary from around £20 per person for the most basic accommodation to over £35 for the most luxurious, en suite places. Most charge around £50 per room. Remember that many places do not have single rooms and deduct between £5 and £15 for single occupancy of a double or twin room. Prices can be less during the winter months and if you are on a budget you could always ask to go without breakfast which will usually result in a lower price.

Guesthouses, hotels, pubs and inns
Guesthouses are usually more sophisticated than bed and breakfasts, offering evening meals and a lounge for guests; rates are around £30-40 per person.

Pubs and inns offer bed and breakfast of a medium to high standard and have the added advantage, of course, of having a bar downstairs, so it's not far to stagger back to bed. However, the noise from tipsy punters below your room might prove a nuisance if you want an early night. Prices usually range from £30 per person per night.

Hotels are usually aimed more at the motoring tourist rather than the muddy walker and the price (�40-50 per person) is likely to put off the budget traveller. A few hotels have been included in the trail guide for those feeling they deserve at least one night of luxury during their trip.

FOOD AND DRINK

Breakfast and lunch
If staying in a B&B, guesthouse or hotel you'll be served a full cooked breakfast which may be more than you are used to. Ask for a lighter continental breakfast if you can't stand so much food first thing in the morning; alternatively, ask to have a packed lunch instead of breakfast, particularly if you are planning an early start. Many B&Bs and youth hostels can also provide you with a packed lunch at an additional cost.

Alternatively, breakfast and packed lunches can be bought and made yourself. There are some great cafés and bakeries along the Way which can supply both and if you are lucky you will be in town on the day of a farmers' market (see box p15); they are great places to pick up fresh food and try something from the local area. Remember that certain stretches of the walk are devoid of places to eat so check the information in Part 4 so you don't go hungry.

Evening meals
The pubs that grace the pretty flint villages of the Downs rank as some of the most authentic country inns in England. Many of them date from the 14th or 15th centuries and have fascinating histories. Food can vary from cheap traditional bar food to high-quality cuisine served in a pub restaurant. For the serious 'connoisseur' drinker the best thing about the downland pub is the range of real ales on offer (see box below).

While evening meals in the villages are often limited to whatever the local pub is serving, some of the larger towns such as Winchester, Eastbourne, Petersfield and Midhurst are home to some quality restaurants with specialities ranging from fish to Italian fare. Those on a budget, or walkers who stumble into town late in the evening, will find a number of late-night takeaway joints offering everything from kebabs and pizzas to Indian and Chinese and, of course, traditional fish and chips.

Self-catering supplies
If you are camping, fuel for the stove and other equipment is an important consideration. Supplies can be found at any of the outdoor shops in Winchester and Eastbourne, whilst en route there are outdoor shops in Petersfield, Lewes and Arundel. Check Part 4 for more detailed information about these shops.

Drinking water
Depending on the weather you will need to drink as much as four litres of water a day. If you're feeling lethargic it may well be that you haven't drunk enough, even if you're not feeling particularly thirsty.

Although drinking directly from streams and rivers can be tempting, it is not a good idea. Streams that cross the path tend to have flowed across farmland where you can be pretty sure any number of farm animals have relieved themselves. Combined with the probable presence of farm pesticides and other delights, it is best to avoid drinking from these streams. Drinking-water taps are marked on the route maps. Where these are thin on the ground you can usually ask a friendly shopkeeper or pub barman to fill your bottle or pouch for you - from the tap, of course.

.