Trailblazer Guide Books

Practical guidebooks for the more adventurous traveller.
 - The Herald

Rowardennan to Inversnaid               MAPS 15-19

A lovely wooded walk along the shore of Loch Lomond for 7 miles (11km, 21/4-31/2hrs), away from both traffic and tourists.
    Within a short distance there is a choice of routes. The easier high route stays on the undulating forestry track passing several waterfalls and yielding occasional surprise views through the trees. A harder alternative route drops down to the loch on a small path which forges a tortuous route clinging as close to the shore as it dares. Many short, steep climbs, fallen trees and rocky sections make the going slow and arduous. The rewards for this are being immersed in glorious oak woods with wonderful lochside views.
    The two routes rejoin just beyond Rowchoish Bothy (see Map 17), a simple shelter with sleeping platform and fire. The Way continues on a well-made path along the shore through further stretches of old oak woodland. If you take the high route you will reach Inversnaid Hotel in 2¼ to 3 hours. Via the low route it will take 2½ to 3½ hours.

Inversnaid     Map 19, p125
Budget walkers will be delighted to hear that Inversnaid Bunkhouse (tel 01877 386249, www.inversnaid.com; 2T/4F) has reopened. Housed in what was once a church (some of the stained-glass windows are still in situ), this is a remote and cosy place that offers a free pick-up service from the Way – which is useful, considering its location 800m uphill from the Way (just follow the road up from the hotel). The rate for campers is £4pp including use of facilities, and £5 to hire a tent. Note, however, that they do not have a self-catering kitchen, though the Top Bunk BistroT , a licensed restaurant serves food daily (8-9.30am, noon-4pm & 6-9pm); non residents must book for evening meals. They also offer free internet access and wi-fi, a wide range of evening entertainment and a hot tub (£5pp for two hours). Rates start at £17pp for a bed, breakfast for £2.50-5.50, and an evening meal (three courses for £11). Packed lunches (£4.50) are also available. Dogs are welcome. Note that booking is essential between November and March.
    Inversnaid Hotel (tel 01877-386223, www.lochsandglens.com; 114 rooms, all en suite, bath available) is a welcome relief for many walkers as it’s the only place on the Way between Rowardennan and Inverarnan that provides food and drink. The walkers’ entrance is around the back and it’s appreciated if you remove wet and muddy clothes before going in. The bar is open daily noon-9pm from Easter to October and you can order good-value food: take-away meals, such as burgers and chips (£3.95) are served 11am-3pm & 5-8pm; sandwiches (from £2.45) are available throughout the day. Accommodation starts at £50pp for B&B.
    Five minutes north of Inversnaid Hotel is a lovely clearing on the loch shore beyond the boathouse where backpackers can camp for free. All that is asked is that you only stay one night and don’t light a fire.
    A small boat is operated by Inversnaid Hotel, on request, to the viewpoint by Sloy Power Station at Inveruglas (about £3) from where it is possible to flag down the Citylink coaches (Nos 914, 915 & 916) on the A82 (choose a safe place where they can pull over); the other option is to contact Cruise Loch Lomond (see p117-18) whose scheduled West Highland Way Rambler cruise includes the walk from Rowardennan to Inversnaid; contact them for further details of this and their other scheduled cruises.

Rob Roy’s Cave
The concealed entrance to Rob Roy’s cave (see Map 19), supposedly a hideaway of the Highland hero, is thoughtfully marked with a large ‘CAVE’ in white graffiti above the entrance. It’s quite a scramble to get there and there’s not a lot to see.
        If you want to explore take a torch with you so that you can investigate the nooks and crannies. Judging by the amount of droppings on the floor it’s used more by errant sheep and goats than clandestine men.
        Rob Roy MacGregor, the Robin Hood of the Highlands, was born in 1671, the third son of a clan chieftain. Like many Highlanders of the time he made a living by dealing cattle, both legally and illegally, and would occasionally set off for the Lowlands on cattle raids. Part of this ‘business’ was the taking of protection money. By the time he was 40 he had acquired a sizeable amount of land and was prospering as a dealer. He was well known throughout Scotland for being a fair businessman, fine swordsman and for his good looks and wild red hair earning him the Gaelic nickname ‘Ruadh’, meaning red, which became Anglicised to ‘Roy’.
        His infamous career as a bandit began when he made one deal too many. He had borrowed the large sum of £1000 from the Duke of Montrose to complete a transaction, but his trusted drover ran off with the money leaving Rob a wanted man. The duke seized his land and declared Rob an outlaw. Given refuge and encouragement by a distant relation, the Duke of Argyll, Rob set off on many rustling raids against their common enemy, Montrose.
        He was on the run for over 10 years and was captured several times but always managed to escape in daring ways, boosting his image. In the end he turned himself in, was threatened with deportation but was eventually pardoned by the king. He lived out his final years in relative peace at home, with his wife, where he died aged 63.
        Sir Walter Scott, the prolific 19th-century Scottish writer, did more for the reputation of Rob MacGregor than a lifetime of brigandry could ever achieve. In 1818 he published the highly romanticised novel, Rob Roy, which not only took the tale to a wider audience but also ensured that Loch Lomond became a key sight on any tour of the Highlands. By the time William Wordsworth’s sister, Dorothy, came to see the cave in 1822 there was the full tourist set-up of lake steamer, Highland piper and boys selling trinkets. If anything, the cave is a quieter place today.