In comparison with ranges such as the Alps or the Pyrenees tourism in the Atlas mountains is relatively undeveloped, so trekkers seeking solitude need not explore far beyond the more-established routes; 'established' is a comparative word and indeed one meets few fellow trekkers even on the better-known routes. An exception is the Toubkal circuit. The Atlas walker can decide between travelling with an organised group, trekking with a guide or trekking completely alone without feeling under pressure to escape the crowds as one might in more exploited mountain ranges.
INDEPENDENT TREKKING
Kipling said 'he travels the fastest who travels alone' but he had never navigated his way across the Atlas mountains. It's not easy. There are no route markers and the routes themselves can be very indistinct. Apart from the danger of getting lost, it would be ecologically damaging for each trekker to carve a new path through the mountains. For these reasons, all but the most competent trekkers and map readers should consider employing a local guide rather than travelling solo.
TREKKING WITH A GUIDE AND MULE
Guides
Morocco has a well-organised programme for training mountain guides which is now used for guides from a number of other African countries. Would-be guides must pass a demanding three-day selection test before being accepted. They are then given one year's training at a centre near Tabant.
There are only 200 or so trained guides in the country. Qualified guides live in all Atlas trailheads so finding one is simple. They are given a badge which you should always ask to see before signing up to their services. It's also important to take a guide with whom you can develop a friendly relationship; go for tea with your prospective guide and try to gauge whether you will get on well together in the mountains. Most guides speak Berber and French but some also speak English. Expect to pay around £16/US$27 per day for a trained guide.
There are several very good reasons to use a guide:
Safety – A guide will help prevent you from getting lost and will be ready to help find a way out of the mountains in an emergency.
Communication – The Atlas Berbers have only recently begun to welcome visitors to their previously hidden world. Few speak French and fewer still know English. A guide will act as interpreter so you can talk to local people; apart from the cultural insight such an exchange might offer, this could be critical in an emergency situation.
Understanding – If you form a good relationship with your guide, which is likely over the course of a trek, you will benefit enormously from the chance this gives to find out more about Moroccan life. When trekkers make friends of their guides, they are able to ask questions and gain understanding which otherwise would be denied to an outsider.
Enjoyment – Finding your own way through the mountains will take some effort. Admittedly, it is this very challenge which appeals to some. But if your guide is leading the way, you are left free to concentrate on trekking rather than map-reading.
Mules and muleteers
Groups of more than two people, or those trekking for an extended period, should consider taking a mule to carry their gear. This is the normal procedure in the Atlas and locals will think it bizarre if you prefer to carry your own pack. A mule, accompanied by a muleteer (mule-driver), will cost about £5/US$8 per day. Each mule carries about 100 kilos which usually equates to four backpacks. The muleteer will stack what appears to be an enormous amount of kit onto his mule but, if you fear for its safety, remember that to the muleteer this one animal provides an entire livelihood. He will look after it. Using a mule means you put money straight into local pockets. It also makes your trek safer since evacuation by mule is often the fastest way out of the Atlas in an emergency (see p39). The muleteer will organise food for the mule.
Even the fittest trekker will struggle to maintain the same pace as a muleteer and his animal. Mountain Berbers have spent their whole lives at altitude and they don't expect visitors to match their speed. They will wait every 40 minutes or so for the group to catch up.
While it's certainly true that most muleteers know their way round the mountains almost as well as trained guides, attempting to use a muleteer to act as a guide (which, admittedly, would save a lot of money) is frowned upon and most will refuse. Equally, never suggest paying a little extra for your guide to carry your pack. A guide would find such a proposal insulting.
Cuisinier
Your guide and muleteer will expect you to pay for their food while trekking. Usually this means employing a muleteer who doubles as a cuisinier (cook), although you could take a separate cuisinier. The cuisinier will then help you budget for and buy food for the entire trip (see p76) and he will race ahead each evening to prepare the meal in time for your arrival. Again, this is the accepted way things are done in the Atlas and, though it might sound rather decadent to employ a cook, you should consider going along with it. You will eat well if you do. If you plan to cook yourself, you will need to provide enough for the hearty appetite of your muleteer and guide.
Gîtes d’étape, refuges and camping
Despite a large number of villages in the Atlas, most of which provide accommodation either in a gîte d’étape (lodge) or private house, trekkers will almost certainly find it necessary to camp. In fact, it would be very difficult to plan a trek of any length with a gîte d’étape at the end of each stage.
If you do find yourself invited to stay in a private house, which is quite likely, don’t expect more than a fairly primitive dwelling. Locals ask around £2/US$3 per night to put someone up. It’s well worth it for a glimpse of domestic Berber life.
In summer, when temperatures soar, many trekkers choose to sleep under the stars or in bivvy-bags. On the higher slopes, however, nights can become very cold, even in summer; take a lightweight trekking tent. In winter, of course, overnight temperatures plummet well below freezing, so appropriate camping equipment must be taken. Remember to ask permission to camp whenever possible and tidy up afterwards (see p81).
There are a number of refuges (mountain huts) in the High Atlas, some managed by Club Alpin Français (CAF), which can be used for £2-4/US$3-6 per night. The CAF huts provide mattresses and a cooker and most refuges sell water and soft drinks. Only the Neltner refuge under Jbel Toubkal offers food. While there are plans to extend the refuge system, at present it is very limited. Refuges, like gîtes, are clearly marked in the relevant trekking section of this book.
Group tours
Convenience is the main reason why people join organised treks but there are other advantages: you might find yourself in a group of friendly, like-minded people and your guide will probably speak your language. If you’ve travelled to Morocco alone, joining a group is one way to avoid trekking solo. Several agencies combine trekking with other Moroccan ‘highlights’ or other mountain activities. Another advantage, of course, is that the better agencies offer a higher degree of comfort than you might achieve for yourself. And if you book through a company in your own country, you will probably find a representative on hand in Morocco to help smooth the way for you.
On the downside, group tours are relatively expensive. It’s cheaper to organise the whole thing yourself. (Don’t be put off by the thought that arranging a guide and muleteer is in some way difficult. It’s not.) Another drawback is the fact that group tours follow a fixed itinerary. You might also find that a group trek proceeds at a different pace to yours. Groups tend to find their ‘mean speed’ which can be rather slow. It’s also true that trekking with a large group of the same nationality makes it difficult to engage with local culture as fully as one might while trekking independently.
If you do decide to take the group option, however, you will find that several international adventure travel companies offer Atlas itineraries (see below). Then there are a number of Morocco specialists and, of course, a host of trekking agencies based in Morocco itself. Many of these companies, which tend to be based in Marrakesh, are slightly cheaper than their overseas competitors. It can be difficult arranging a trek through a Moroccan agency from home; it might be worth persevering, however, since a number of overseas-based agencies simply use Morocco-based companies anyway.
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