There’s nothing better after a long trek than a hammam; the Moroccan equivalent of a Turkish bath. If you pay for the full works you will normally be shown into a series of increasingly hot and steamy rooms. You’ll then be expected to wash from a tap in the hottest room before some wrinkled but often surprisingly strong old character steps out to give you the traditional massage. This is normally pretty vigorous but despite what you might think while it’s happening you will feel better for it afterwards.
Hammams are either men-only, women-only or shared with set times for women (usually earlier) and men. A recent story tells of a 20-year-old boy who, fascinated by the opposite sex but frustrated by his inability to meet girls, disguised himself as a woman and sneaked into a women-only hammam to take a peek. Sadly for him he was caught and, apparently, sentenced to a very long prison term. Hammams are social places where groups of men and of women gather to discuss the day’s events while washing in the steamy water. Since relatively few Western travellers find their way into hammams you can expect to be welcomed by the locals who will happily show you the proper routine.
One of the better hammams for men is on rue Zitoune el-Qedim on the right a little way before the left turn to Hôtel Sherazade (if you’re walking from Djemaa al-Fna). It’s hard to find since there’s no sign; look for a traditionally-decorated arched doorway with bicycles and scooters propped up just inside. The fee appears to be negotiable but expect to pay 30-50dh for the full hammam including massage. There are two hammams side by side off rue de Bab Agnaou – one for women and one for men. Turn left at Hôtel de la Paix to find them. Expect to pay 30dh here for the full treatment. Don’t forget to take a towel.
If you would prefer to relax with a Western-style massage go to Hôtel Nassim on avenue Mohammed V and make an appointment with their in-house masseuse. A 30-minute massage will cost 100dh.
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