COPING WITH CHINA

t would be foolish to travel this far across the world and believe that the people and customs you encounter are going to be exactly the same as they are at home. Actually there are far more similarities than you might imagine but as it's the differences which stand out, it doesn't always seem this way. There are a number of Chinese behavioural quirks which tend to annoy travellers so it would be as well to be ready for these.

Money - the two tier system
First, there is the matter of money: the Chinese have absolutely no qualms about charging foreign visitors two, three or even ten times the price that they would expect a local person to pay. Occasionally you will come across a bus conductor who will make a point of asking you for the correct fare, or a passer-by who will argue on your behalf. Generally, however, the system is accepted: foreigners can afford it, so they should pay more. There is little you can do about official overpricing, and you will occasionally find yourself the victim of gross overcharging in the markets. Bargain where possible, but otherwise grin and bear it; losing your temper will only spoil your day.

The problem of saving face
When you come across a cheap hotel which refuses to take you 'because all the rooms are full', ask them if you can book a room for tomorrow, next week, or even next month. The answer is always that this is impossible because they are booked up months in advance. Actually the real reason is that they don't take foreigners but it seems too embarrassing to say this. Examples of the same syndrome are found elsewhere; waitresses will smile and tell you that your food is definitely coming, CITS staff will confirm that they are certain to be able to get you a ticket, and that if you travel down to the museum it will certainly be open. Double and even triple check the answers you receive.

Sometimes, unfortunately, travellers meet with the exact opposite of this behaviour. Either because the person approached doesn't believe that he or she can help you, or because they don't want to lose face if they are unable to do so, the answer is a blanket refusal. 'Mei yo' are the magic words, and can mean anything from 'I don't understand' to 'I don't speak English' to 'Before you ask the answer is no'. The only thing you can do is remain polite, and finally, if you're really being blanked out, go elsewhere.

Being the centre of attention
Somewhat unnerving can be the national habit of staring. The Chinese will stare at anything, and after a few weeks in the country, you'll probably find yourself doing it too. Huge crowds gather in the street to gawp silently at a road accident, an argument, or any other unusual event. How convenient then, if on a long and boring train journey there's a foreigner in your carriage - particularly if he or she has some particularly non-Chinese characteristic - a big nose, hairy arms or a large breasts; this is ready-made entertainment. No harm is meant by all this, and although you may find complete strangers poring over your letter as you write it, it's only out of curiosity. Smile and try some Chinese words - you'll make a lot of friends.

Spitting
For many foreigners one of the most off-putting habits in China is the constant spitting. Waking in the morning in any low budget hotel, you are likely to be met by the sounds of a chorus of fellow residents, all hawking up their guts, as part of their morning ablutions. It's an age old tradition. Marco Polo recorded that, in the palace of Kubilai Khan: '...every baron or nobleman continually carries with him a little vessel of pleasing design into which he spits so long as he is in the hall, so that no-one may make so bold as to spit on the floor.' It isn't considered rude to spit in public - in fact it's necessary; everybody has the 'flu bug, and consequently everybody needs to clear their tubes. This, of course, means that germs get passed around and many travellers who spend more than a short time in China catch some sort of flu bug, - hence the advice to bring throat pastilles and Lemsip.

Lighten up - you're on holiday!
Finally, remember that, as in any country, a smile, a little patience and any attempt to communicate in the local language will go a long way. The Chinese are, for the most part friendly, courteous and hospitable.