TIBET
Tibet is the ultimate expression of self-supported bike touring: the chance to get to places which cannot be reached any other way, for there is little public transport, foreign private vehicles are forbidden and many roads are in any case impassable by car. Anyone who actually rides into Tibet has earned their stripes; if you fly in you’ll have a more sudden exposure to altitude.
Riding in Tibet demands the utmost physical fitness and preparation for both you and your bike. Supplies and backup transport cannot be relied upon. If there for a week or two expect to lose significant amounts of body weight; riders returning to Tibet often try to bulk up before arrival – not just in muscle but body fat too.
Entry points
Flying into Lhasa is an easier option than sneaking in from ‘mainland’ China: but at 3650m expect some acclimatization. This can be easier if you take a train from Xining to Golmud then a bus into Tibet and Lhasa (the rail line to Lhasa should be open by 2007) – a good option if you’re starting from the east.
Riding up the Friendship Highway from Nepal is basically a non-starter unless you’re in a group, but people have formed such groups in Kathmandu and been given visas as long as they had a support vehicle and guide.
The eastern roads from Dali in Yunnan (near Vietnam and Laos) or from Chengdu in Sichuan are hard going as they cross the Mekong and its tributaries with plenty of ups and downs and are well-policed to repel individual travellers. Entering from the Karakoram Highway (see p.109) in Pakistan at the Khunjerab Pass may be one of the best bets, though in times of border tension, bike riders are forced to take a bus from the Chinese border to Tashkurgan, missing one of the longest and most scenic downhills in the entire Himalaya.
Visas
How much riding you get to do in Tibet will be governed by your visa situation. Visa renewals in Tibet are possible but not assured, especially outside Lhasa. The PSB office at Ali may give an extension but cannot be relied upon. The term of your initial visa for China may vary, typically from between one and three months. Asking for a long visa and specifying Tibet in your application could blow your cover. The situation often changes and varies depending on which embassy you apply to, so keep up to date by looking on internet forums such as www.tibetoverland.com and work out a strategy before you go.
Wars anywhere in the region, Islamic unrest, Tibetan unrest or political problems in Beijing can cause the fragile modus vivendi between independent travellers and the authorities to be suspended. During the US invasion of Afghanistan, independent travellers were hastily put on buses and trucks and taken out of Tibet.
TIBET BIKER'S NOTES
Janne Corax
Tibet has the reputation of being a mystical place and was once thought to be where Shangri La was to be found. Beautiful scenery, interesting culture, challenging riding and the feeling of being on a real adventure make it the most interesting destination for cyclists.
Maps
The best plan is to buy a Chinese map in China and use a Western one as a back up. Usually the Chinese atlases are far more accurate when it comes to distance but they look pretty unexciting without topographical information. Another advantage of having a Chinese map is that you can ask directions from local people by pointing at the map. Xinhua bookstores are best for a wide selection of good atlases. The thick brown truck-driver’s bible is still the best option. The most useful one with a Western name is China Tibet Tour Map by the Mapping Bureau of Tibet autonomous region. It’s very good, even if it looks cheap and simple.
Climate and the seasons
The climate varies greatly in Tibet. In general, winter runs from November to mid March, spring from mid-March to mid-late May, summer from late May to mid-August and autumn begins mid-August and ends in November. In addition, the spring wet season runs from March to mid-May. This mostly applies on the approaches from the lowlands in the west, Nepal and all over the east. Late summer/fall wet season runs from mid-June to late August. The west can be hell all over at this time, especially if the monsoon reaches over the Himalayas. The approaches from the west, Nepal and the east may be blocked for weeks and are in general really dangerous. Landslides, flash floods and storms kill quite a few people every year. The west is much colder than central Tibet and the winter arrives much earlier north of the Gangdise mountains than on the southern side: it was a real shock to get over the Semo Pass and arrive in bitter cold on the northern side.
When to go
Spring and autumn are by far the best seasons. The summer can be good but if there’s a strong monsoon you may end up battling serious mud or even landslides. Winter is for those with a real sense of adventure and those who are prepared for cold weather, heavy blizzards and waist-deep snow on some passes. The east gets much more precipitation than the west but the west is much colder and there are no deep warm valleys to take a break from the cold.
Costs
Bring lots of cash, not travellers’ cheques, as there are few banks. I would never consider a budget higher than US$10 per day. Usually, if you’re cycling alone, the average ends up ranging between US$2-5 per day, depending on the area; the west is more expensive. Sometimes you’re in places where the nearest bank is weeks away. Remember that prices can be quite steep in some distant areas and in extreme cases you may even be charged for hot water. Check out how the truck drivers handle these situations and then try to pay about the same. If camping a lot and cooking your own food, you will not spend much money even if the prices are higher.
I usually also stash Y1500 (about US$185) for ‘unexpected costs’: fines, for example, or if you get injured and have to hitch with a truck (there are very few free rides up there). You can change dollars in Ali/Shiquanhe (although you’ll get a bad exchange rate if counting the fine in order to be able to change it here in the first place), Lhasa, Shigatze, Bayi, Gyantze, Nagqu, Qamdo, Zhangmu and possibly Lhatze, Saga and Nyalam. In some other places you can change on the black market. I’ve heard the PSB has higher fines now. Before paying a fine, demand to have a look in the law book (English version), especially if you think the price is a bit steep. Also let the PSB officer state which crime you’re being charged with. Be polite but firm about this. Sometimes they back off and let you go when you demand this.
Accommodation
The obvious choice for most cyclists is to camp. On most of the routes you’ll find places which seem as if they’re custom-made for pleasant camping. According to Chinese law you are not allowed to camp but no-one seems to care. If you like being left alone by curious truck drivers or shepherds, you can always find a place where your tent isn’t seen. Certainly, on the Friendship Highway it’s a good idea to keep a low profile and not camp where you can be easily noticed because of the risk of theft. You’ll also avoid the annoyance of having someone sitting outside the tent begging for hours.
The alternative to camping is the often abysmal truck-stop hotels along the way. They are usually severely overpriced: a concrete or clay room with old and worn-out beds, often set so close they look like one huge bed. Filthy, flea-infested blankets, a candle and sometimes a thermos of hot water complete the picture. Chain-smoking room-mates who constantly seem to cough their lungs up is the norm and in winter time a smoky little heater loaded with yak dung adds to the fug. Watch out for furious guard dogs and falling into the toilet pit when going to the toilet at night. In the bigger cities there are hotels where, like everywhere in China, you get what you pay for.
Food
Contrary to what most people think, food is not a problem in the region. There are normally shops within a couple of days’ cycling and, if not, you can always stop at any settlement and buy tsampa, sugar, salt and other basic foods.
Travelling in winter makes it a bit harder to find food in some areas:
– Along most of the popular routes (Friendship Highway, Golmud Highway, Kashi – Kailash – Lhasa) there are few longer hauls without food – sometimes a day or two but seldom more.
– The Northern Route (Ali/Shiquanhe – Gerze – Tsochen – Raka) has some stretches of 3-7 days where it’s impossible to buy provisions, depending on the distance you cover per day and in which season you travel.
– In the east there is plenty of food along the way but you have to be more careful about being noticed by the PSB, so it’s not always practical to eat in a restaurant.
In general, Chinese eating places are safer than the Tibetan equivalents with regard to hygiene standards. Fresh vegetables are available in the bigger cities, especially if there is a large Chinese population. In the smaller villages and at truck-stops you can always buy fresh vegetables straight from the restaurants, but prices can be steep.
It’s usually cheaper to eat a vegetable dish in the restaurant. The army biscuit/noodle diet is for those who decide to cook for themselves, people going for the longer hauls or those travelling in winter, when many truck stops and restaurants are closed.
Water and fuel
Water is not generally a problem and I’ve very seldom come across an area where there is no water for more than 50km. There are some drier periods and at the beginning or end of winter you may have to melt snow. The closer to the northern parts of the plateau – the Chang Tang region – the more brackish and salty lakes you’ll encounter. As long as you stick to the roads, you can always flag down a truck and ask for water. A water filter may come in handy if you want to play it safe, but in general the water is OK to drink in most places.
Bring a multi-fuel stove. Gasoline and diesel can be bought from motorists and in towns along the way. Paraffin/kerosene is also available but usually harder to find and of poor quality.
Closed areas
As in other parts of China, there are some places which are off-limits to foreigners. You can either try to get an Alien’s Travel Permit at the PSB (Public Security Bureau) or go without a permit. The former option can be costly or you may be denied a permit. The latter has the obvious disadvantage of the possibility of being arrested by the PSB. Closed areas fines can be Y200-1000 (US$25-125) and you’ll be made to leave the area. If caught in some of the more sensitive areas or if the PSB people take a disliking to you, you may have your gear (including your bicycle) confiscated.
There are occasional crackdowns and sometimes open areas become closed without notice. Usually the Golmud Highway is the only sure bet and the Friendship Highway is usually safe to cycle from Lhasa to Kathmandu. The east is full of checkpoints and closed areas regardless of which route you take. The Yunnan Highway may be the easier in terms of checkpoints. Western Tibet has two routes (the Northern and Southern, see below) and the bottleneck on both is in Ali/Shiquanhe, where you pay a fine and get your permit but after that you’re allowed to cycle on.
Routes
These are the most common routes:
Golmud Highway – Relatively easy cycling on good asphalt. High passes but no long climbs and relatively easy gradients. A good route to start with.
Friendship Highway – Mostly easy cycling on a combination of gravel and asphalt roads. Some higher passes and a couple of rougher climbs depending on which route you choose.
Southern Route – Kashi (Kashgar) to Lhasa via Mt Kailash. Rough cycling in the western part, with long hard climbs. Sandy and pretty bad road conditions exist in the areas in between Mt Kailash and central Tibet. Hazardous route during the rainy season.
Northern Route – Kashi (Kashgar) to central Tibet, using the northern alternative instead of passing Mt Kailash. Long hauls in the rugged and desolate north. Hard road conditions and rough and high passes. Longer between food stops.
Yunnan Highway – Some parts are now being sealed but it’s still a hard route. Long, hard climbs almost every day and an ever-present danger of being hassled by the PSB. The rainy season and the spring melting season sometimes make this route completely impassable.
Sichuan Highway – Hard route which can be combined with the Yunnan Highway. Long hard climbs and heavy police presence. If the Yunnan Highway is closed because of floods and landslides, this may be an alternative.
Lhasa to Kathmandu
A trip through Tibet would not seem complete without a visit to Lhasa, which is why your time in Tibet and visa arrangements need to be planned carefully. Besides the famous attractions of Lhasa, Kym McConnell suggests numerous other rides in the Lhasa area which would keep you fully occupied for several weeks, visiting monasteries in the area or riding to Lake Nam Tso at 4760m.
Many first-time riders in Tibet choose to leave Tibet on the Friendship Highway. It’s logistically as hassle-free as anything in Tibet and there is a fair amount of bike traffic. Although the quality of the road and facilities steadily improve, it is still a difficult route, with altitudes, dogs, stone-throwing kids, high winds and food poisoning all routine hazards. Don’t take it for granted that you’ll get through and don’t take it as personal failure if weather, lack of stamina or stomach troubles cause you to flag down a bus or truck for a lift. The rewards of this spectacular ride – Shigatse and Tashilhunpo Monastery, the Kumbum at Gyantse, the side trip to Everest Base Camp and Rongbuk Monastery (permit required for the area) and then the world’s longest downhill run, a descent of 4200m in 160km – will be lifelong memories. Just pray that you don’t get headwinds to spoil that fabulous ride.
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