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Pennine Way: Edale to Kirk Yetholm

by: Stuart Greig & Bradley Mayhew


Updated information

Thank you to readers who sent in updated information, including William O'Neill, Mick Brewster, Jonathan Brown, Paul Higinbotham, Bill Gallon, Chairman of the Pennine Way Association, Chris Sainty, Dave Carroll, Simon and Sylvia, Nichola Hele, Iain Chippendale, Willemijn W, Stuart Blackburne, Vinny Whalley, Mick Scarfe, Mike Cowley, Simon Hall, Kevin Blick, Tony Hufton, Jolyon Neely, John Smithson, James Connolly, Mats Heder, Muck Moses, Stuart Greig, Chris Taylor, John Smithson, Ursula Studer, Andrew Welsh, Harry Giles, Lee Richardson, Keith Down, Peter Steward, Mitch Michelson, Gergely Biró.


The information has not yet been checked by Trailblazer but will be for the next edition.


Updated information for the 6th edition

June 2023

A reader sent in:  'a minor mistake in the what3words GPS point listing in the 6th Edition of the Pennine Way book.

It is printed as
234  kiosk.ants.dupe
235  takes.skewing.camped
These appear to be swapped as takes.skewing.camped comes first on the route.
This should be the correct order
234  takes.skewing.camped
235  kiosk.ants.dupe

Updated information for the 5th edition


p268 Maps 127 and 128. At Windy Gayle the 5th edtion of your book says "either side of the fence will do". Please that is not now good advice.Yes you are very much correct in what you are saying but It's awful walking on the monument side, once you have seen the Windy Gayle Trig point you need to get back on to the other side and walk on to the slabs. *I walked it last year in June and walking the Trig Point side was awful and that was in good weather. It's even more awful now. [Now updated in latest (6th) edition]



p214/215, Crossfell. Greg's Hut has reopened after extensive renovation.

p223, Alston.  The High Plaice fish and chip shop is sadly closing on 5 November 2022.


p218, Garrigill. The George & Dragon Inn  is now scheduled for reopening in January 2023 after a £1m renovation and extension. 



p166, Hawes.   Bainbridge Ings Camping Site is not accepting tents currently but it's hoped this will only be a temporary situation. 

p218, Garrigill. George & Dragon Inn has closed temporarily for renovation and is due to re-open in Autumn 2022.  The Post Office no longer does B&B.


p116, Hebden Bridge. Riverview Bed and Breakfast.  New rates January 1st 2022. Both double and twin rooms fully occupied will be £95. Single occupancy rate in the double room £75. Single occupancy rate in the twin room £70. All rates include a full cooked breakfast or variation thereof. They can provide vegetarian or vegan breakfasts, and for those wanting to get away really early they can do a packed breakfast to eat on the hoof. They can also make packed lunches ( advanced notice always appreciated!) at £6.00 per lunch.




p113, Map 21, Stoodley Pike. Old Chamber Farm & Camping, Hebden Bridge, West Yorkshire HX7 6JG. Coming down from Stoodley Pike 2.2k off route. Clean facilities, hot water, powerful showers.  Follow Pennine Bridleway to Callis Wood to rejoin Way. 

p167, Map 55, Gayle.  Blackburn Farm Campsite, Gayle, Hawes, North Yorkshire DL8 3NX. Tel: 01969 667524/07855424209.  Beautiful spot. 

p176, Map 62, Keld. Swaledale Yurts, Park House, Keld, North Yorkshire DL11 6DZ.   No longer accepting campers or motorhomes, unless staying as part of a group booking with guests staying in a yurt, who are happy to share their private bathroom facilities.



p116 Hebden Bridge. Laurel End House B&B is retired and no longer doing BnB.



p227, Map 97. Just below GPS waypoint 204:  It should read: BIG VIADUCT OVER BURN. The viaduct is over Knar Burn.




p176, Keld. Greenlands B&B, Angram Lane, Keld, Richmond, North Yorkshire, DL11 6DY. Tel: 01748 886532, www.greenlandskeld.co.uk


p136 Earby.  Earby Hostel, 13 Birch Hall Lane, Earby, Barnoldswick BB18 6JX now open. Map 33: Follow the sign YHA to reach it.  Very nice hostel (former YHA).  Bedding and even a towel is provided. Well equipped self-catering kitchen or Red Lion Pub nearby. Drying room. Dorms £20pp and there is the option to order a catered breakfast and evening meal. Bookings: www.independenthostels.co.uk or 01282 842349 or 07791 903454.

p.168 Hawes. The Bull's Head Guesthouse
has changed its name to Dales House B&B.

p238 Once Brewed. Sproul Taxis, 5 Parklands, Haltwhistle NE49 9HB, serve the entire area between Alston and Hadrian's Wall (as far as Homesteads at least) with an excellent and accommodating service. Highly recommended by a walker. Tel: 07712 321064.


p124 Ponden. Ponden Guest House is no longer a B&B however walkers may still camp in the camping area for a fee of £5 pp payable on line or in an honesty box, but breakfasts are not available. The existing web site (www.pondenhouse.co.uk) shows this information at present but will be closed and replaced with a more accurate description very soon.

There is alternative accommodation at Ponden including Ponden Mill down by the bottom of the reservoir with B&B and camping. www.themillatponden.com
There is also accommodation at Ponden Hall but the owners have recently put the property up for sale and if it is sold there's no guarantee that any new owners will offer BnB  accommodation.  

p132 Cowling. White House Farm B&B,  BD22 0LY has one room available -  in single, double or twin format. Breakfast, dinner and packed lunches are available but dinner and packed lunches must be booked 48 hours in advance.  Tel: 01535 637880. www.whitehousefarmcowling.co.uk


p195 Middleton-in-Teesdale. The Quirky Quarry B&B, Syke Cottage, Snaisgill Road, Middleton-in-Teesdale, County Durham, DL12 0RP - opening May 2019. 3 En-suite Rooms and a Shepherds Hut. www.thequirkyquarry.co.uk. Tel01833 641 222. Mob 07956 321 414.

April 2019

Standedge. The Carriage House Inn, Manchester Road has changed ownership and is being marketed as a party venue.

Updated information for the 4th edition




Stanbury, Haworth. Ponden Guest House closed at the end of 2018 but the campsite will still be open for the foreseeable future.



Map 21, no sign of old white and lilac landrover

Map 29, 041 wooden post fallen over.

p138 Lothersdale Hare and Hounds, (p138), not open lunchtime, open from 3pm. I arrived 2.55pm - happy!



pp160 and 162 Horton-in-Ribblesdale. Pen-y-ghent Cafe has closed from 3 September until notice. 



p242 Once Brewed.   Winshields Farm does not appear to be offering camping currently.



p119 Hebden Bridge.  Prospect End B&B has been sold and we understand the new owners will not continue running the businessAnother place to stay is Riverview B&B, Stubbing Drive, Hebden Bridge situated less than a mile from the Pennine Way, along the tow path on the route into Hebden Bridge. Mobile: 077155 82378   www.riverviewbnb.co.uk

p225 Alston.  Gilderdale B&B, 3 Townfoot, Alston, Cumbria CA9 3HX. Tel No 07460 177683 or 07410 598059.





p222 Garrigill  The George & Dragon pub in Garrigill has reopened. The new landlord was a lovely guy who is trying to make a real go of it with his wife. His parents used to own the pub back in the 80s, I think, and it almost seems like destiny that it should now have come to him. A lot of work needs doing, but after a cold and rainy day over Cross Fell (awful visibility), to find a pub open with a roaring fire and real ales on tap was AMAZING. He hopes to offer food soon and, eventually, reopen the old bunk house out the back. He is very keep to serve PW walkers. I promised him I would spread the word, as it would be lovely if this place could thrive – it is a long way from Dufton to Alston and a hostelry is most welcome.

p252 Bellingham  Difficult to get accommodation here. I ended up staying at Bridgeford Farm, which was lovely, but about a mile before you get to the town. However, they do offer a free pick up and drop off service. 


p123 Map 23 ColdenMay’s Alladin’s Cave is up for sale. A walker camped there in mid July. The pies are strongly recommended.
p146 Map 37a Gargrave. White Cottage Tea Room is closed and up for sale.

p259 Map 120 Byrness.  Forest View Inn is up for sale.
p135 Map 30 Ickornshaw Moor.  A walker reported he finds the section where you leave the Ickornshaw Moor a bit confusing around the area of the cabins. The approach to Ickornshaw has been re-routed round a farm. This section is partly well signposted but you have to walk across a field where the path is not too obvious.
p168 Map 54.  A walker reports the last section into Hawes coming around Rottenstone Hill can be confusing. There are more drystone walls than the ones shown on the map - walls going in all directions. In clear weather you can aim for Hawes in the distance and try to follow the path. In bad visibility this section can be tricky as the path is not that clear.

p198 Map 72.  One walker reports the approach to Middelton in Teesdale is a difficult section with respect to navigation. In bad visibility it is difficult to find your way.  The walker suggests an option is to take to the right on B6276 and follow the road straight into the village.
p249 Map 111. A section where walkers have difficulties in finding their way is between the lane past the relay station on Ealingham Rigg and the corner of the road shown at upper right of the map. The wall to your right which begins just after the relay station goes on for probably half a mile. The map shows a very short section and indicates you should leave the wall where it ends. Instead you should leave the lane soon after passing through a gate. There used to be a finger post here but it may have gone. After leaving the driveway the path is indistinct. The low guideposts shown on the map may be there or not. The duckboards can be hard to find. The tall GP was lying on the ground when a walker did the walk two years ago and he didn’t see it this summer. You have to walk diagonally across a field surrounded by drystone walls aiming for the opposite corner.  Alternatively set the compass for the corner of the road when you leave the gate.
p106 Map 13 Marsden.  Marsden has shops, accommodation and a number of pubs. The Riverhead Brewery Tap pub, 2 Peel St, Marsden, Huddersfield HD7 6BR Tel: 01484 841270 has its own microbrewery.  The walk along the canal through town is recommended by one walker. Following the towpath and heading west for about half a mile you will come to where the canal enters the Standedge tunnel. If you are lucky with timing you may even be able to take a boat tour into the tunnel. There is also a café and museum nearby.

p107 Standedge.  The Great Western Inn is closed.
p124 Map 23. The Hebden Bridge Loop. The walk along the loop is very nice and it’s well signposted. There are good views of the Calder valley both when going down to Hebden Bridge and when climbing out of the valley. Heptonstall is a nice little village with a big church, a ruined church, a post office and two pubs. 

p256 Map 116. A walker recommends an alternative: "One of the most boggy sections of the path is where you join a drystone wall and head up to the Brownrigg Head. With a fence/wall on your right and a dense forest to your left there is no way of avoiding getting wet and muddy. There has been extensive logging in the area and so the situation may have changed – for the better or the worse. One way of avoiding this section is to take to the left on the road just after Whitely Pike. Along the road there are two or three turn offs to the left (south). Keep to the right and you will soon be heading dead north towards the Gib Shiel farm where you enter the Redesdale forest. You will continue on a forest road and after some time you will come to a gate where the proper PW joins from the right. "

p143 Map 34 Earby Earby Friends of Nature House was Earby YHA Hostel and is under new management, due to open Spring 2018.

p155 Map 43 Malham Tarn. After passing the Malham Tarn House there is a new picnic area by the lake with tables and great views. There is also a public toilet in one of the buildings behind the house.

p190 Bowes. The Ancient Unicorn Inn has reopened and is offering B&B and food. The Street, Bowes, Barnard Castle, Co Durham DL12 9HL. Tel: 01833 628576.   www.ancientunicorn.com


p202 Holwick.  High Force Hotel. The telephone number is 01833 622336


p138 Thornton-in-Craven. Transdev bus Lancashire United. The X43 transdev bus ('The Witchway') has a half-hourly service to and from Barnoldswick, where there is accommodation - The Fountain Inn on Church Street single room ~ £37 and recommended  dinner around £15-£20.
The X43 is a Manchester - Skipton service and Thornton - Barnoldswick takes about 15 minutes.


Ickornshaw.   Squirrel Wood Campsite. Squirrel Wood Cottage, Ickornshaw, Cowling, North Yorkshire BD22 ODB.  Tel: 07973 353027. www.squirrelwoodcampsite.co.uk


p219 Map 87 Cross Fell. A reader reported his challenging crossing of Cross Fell and recommended walkers take extra care here.   The cross shelter is marked on the map on the wrong side of the trig point.  Also be aware of the Helm Wind which is particular to Cross Fell and can whip up suddenly and (as the strongest wind in England) can be extremely dangerous to an ill equipped walker.


p141 Map 34 Thornton-in-Craven.  Thornton Hall Country Park, Thornton-in-Craven, near Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 3TS  (just off the route) has a cafe which you can use without paying entry to the farm park. Might be handy as the village has nothing similar.

p115 Map 20: there is currently a diversion of the path around Warland Resevoir. This seems to be temporary.
p190 Bowes. The Ancient Unicorn Inn, Bowes, Barnard Castle DL12 9HL has re-opened and seems to be thriving.
p196 Map 70. A walker reported the path is now on the other side of the wall. He did not see a rail sleeper guide post.
p206 Langdon Beck.  Langdon Beck Hotel is recommended as in the guidebook.
p208 Map 79.  One walker reports a possibly new track from Birkdale Farm therefore makes the subsequent directions hard to follow. Be careful to check the map here.
p222 Garrigil. St Johns House B&B, Garrigill CA9 3DS with a nice friendly vibe (next door to the still-closed pub). It's not expensive and a walker reported they had a delicious evening meal. They have a bar and restaurant that’s open to non-residents.
p227 Alston to Greenhead.   Kellah Farm B&B, Haltwhistle NE49 0JL isa quarter of a mile or so off the path.  It's a working farm.
p266 Byrness to Kirk Yetholm. Cocklawfoot Farm B&B  an easy 2.5 mile walk down from the ridge. A walker comments: "They give you a lift back up to the path in the morning in an off-road vehicle. They provide evening meal which is essential because of the remoteness. This is a good option because it means you can finish your walk at Kirk Yetholm by lunchtime then get back home that evening."


p268 Upper Coquetdale. Barrowburn cafe, Deer Hut and camp location closed at the end of November 2016.

September 2016

p117 Map 21 Stoodley Pike. The Gallery is accessible.

pp126-9 Maps 25 to 28. Midges near reservoirs.  We've had the following comment from a walker about the problem of midges:  "Walkers should not underestimate the ferocity of an attack by midges. I met with three other walkers and we all had similar experiences on a still day walking past the reservoirs. The place with two footbridges on map 25 was very bad with midges."

p109 Map 15. If staying at The Carriage House, there is a footpath on the opposite side of the main road, that joins the Pennine Way, and avoids having to walk on the road.

p112 Map 17.
The tea van on the A672 has a new proprietor, now Monday to Friday from 06:00 to 13:00, drinks and light snacks.

p114 Map 19.
The fingerpost at the start of Warland Reservoir can be misleading, do not use the lower path.

p117 Map 21.
Between Stoodley Pike and the Gap Stile there are 3 equally spaced yellow topped posts.

p118 Map 22. 
At bottom of the map, before the finger post, the path to the right is the start of the Hebden Bridge Loop, which probably deserves a mention.

The "Bridge" by the A646, marked on the lower margin, should be named "Callis Bridge". This would then match with names seen on finger posts on the way down from Stoodley Pike.

p136 Ickornshaw. Squirrel Wood Camping, Squirrel Wood Cottage, Ickornshaw, Cowling, North Yorkshire BD22 0DB. Opened in 2016. Tel: 07973353027. www.squirrelwoodcampsite.co.uk

p143 Earby. The Red Lion no longer does food.

July 2016

p116 Todmorden. Two Hoots Guest House B&B, Lee Bottom Road,Todmorden OL14 6HH just below Stoodley Pike. Tel: 07792 447 356. www.twohootsguesthouse.co.uk


June 2016

p176 Hardraw. Bunkhouse - relatively new and is still being renovated but beds are available.

p195 Baldersdale. The Clove Lodge is looking to sell up.

p199 Middleton. Cafe 1618 is for sale.

p268 Map 128, Byrness to Kirk Yetholm. Cocklawfoot Farm B&B,
Yetholm, Kelso, Scottish Borders TD5 8QA.  Tel: 01573 420231. At the four way fingerpost Cocklawfoot is signposted, 2.2 miles downhill.  In the morning they will give you a lift back to the route.  www.cocklawfootfarm.co.uk .


p123 Colden.  The New Delight Inn (tel 01422 844628 ; bar Mon 5-11pm, Tue-Thur noon-3.00pm & 5-11pm, Fri -Sun noon-11pm; food served Tue-Fri noon-3.00pm & in addition on Fri 5-8pm, Sat-Sun noon-8.00pm), at Jack Bridge, provides a haven for thirsty or just plain miserable Pennine Way walkers with a friendly atmosphere and a well-tended cellar.
Camping is also offered with facilities including toilets, hot shower, electric hook up and gas. Book by phone and they say 'let us know you're Pennine Way and we will always find space.'


p252 Bellingham.  Lynn View B&B is now closed, the owners have retired.

Map 21- Stoodley Pike - you mention the gallery is accessible but all access appears to be bricked up.

Map 22- Mytholm - signage is not clear once you cross the main road. Once under the railway bridge it's straight up the hill on the very steep cobbled way. Never saw a sign.

Map 31- Ickornshaw - No problem coming down off the hills but emerging onto road you have to turn left and walk up past the bus shelter before taking the steps down into the village. No official signage when I was there but a large PW painted on the wall near the steps.

Signage in the village was non existent.

Map 44- Highest point on Fountains Fell is nearer the PW path than FF Tarn. The guide map shows it the other side. The next highest point beyond the tarn is not the 'summit'. Dont trust your eyes.

Map 94- Alston - Great Spar at petrol station just off way as you come down from YHA. Open long hours.

Map 105- Once Brewed - demolished. Currently building a new hostel and visitor centre opening 2017.

Map 107- Jenkins Burn - below Hadrians wall. 4" deep water despite very dry condition. Slabs slippy. Hold onto handrail.

Map 111- 2 tall GP on brow of hill broken out of the ground. Not visible until you are on top of them.

Map 114- Just after gps 261 - 'plank across gully' now a substantial stone and shale bridge.

p274 The Border Hotel, Kirk Yethom.   Arrived in the middle of the afternoon dripping wet through. The couple running the pub couldn't have been more hospitable, friendly or interested in my journey. I never did get their names but they were great.


May 2016

Bowes, Barnard Castle. The Ancient Unicorn, The Street, Bowes, Barnard Castle, Co Durham DL12 9H is open with 12 new letting rooms, an all day coffee shop and great bar meals after a total refurbishment.  Tel:  01833 628576.


November 2015

Opening in May 2016, 1¼ miles north of Keld on the Pennine Way: Frith Lodge Keld (☎ 01748 886489; www.frithlodgekeld.co.uk; 3D/2T en suite; Ⓛ £6; evening meal from £15). B&B for £47.50pp.

July 2015

p 193, Map 69.  No accommodation at Clove Lodge (currently for sale); The Fox and Hounds at Cotherstone picked us up, provided a very comfortable night’s b and b and returned us to the Way at Baldersdale the following morning.
p197 Map 71. Immediately after Wythes Farm at the gate; footpath and bridleway signs in opposite directions. Neither has acorn or PW sign, not immediately clear which route to take (right, footpath). The ‘awkward poorly fitting metal gate..’ was no worse than any other. Thereafter the path vastly improves to become a lovely grassy track.
p203, Map 75. ‘The view of High Force is hindered by ....’:  there are two excellent viewpoints, one downstream and one on the lip of the waterfall – most impressive.
The ‘rocky path’ is well made and easy; the stones are small.
p204, Map 76. Path is very well signed through Cronkley Farm.
p204, Map 79. After Grain Beck the (newly laid military?) path is made of stone chippings – uncomfortable and awkward to walk on. Arrow on marker post very unclear; it’s all too easy to continue to follow the chippings track up Rasp Hill. A stone on the rhs also helps identify the spot to leave the track.
p219, Map 88. Corpse Road is not as bad as the uncomfortable chippings after Grain Beck.
p221, Map 90. If walking on to Alston, Garrigill can be bypassed at the sharp right hand turn on the Corpse Road by following the signed footpath on the left.
p222. HSBC bank in Alston is now closed.
p233, Map 99. A smart new stone now stands beside the old fallen, hidden stone.
p234, Map 100. Kellah Farm (Tel: 01434 320816) for overnight stop: highly recommended. Turn right on lane or take footpath at Ulpham Farm.
p250, Map 112.  Accommodation at Bellingham: it’s well worth the extra mile (or lift from the landlady) down Boat Lane to stay at Boat Farm (Tel: 01434 220989) for a generous welcome and extremely comfortable accommodation in idyllic surroundings.
p250, Map 112.  ‘Head NE to brow of hill’ should read ‘Head NNW’.
p262-3, Maps 122 and 123. The descent and subsequent ascent near Chew Green can be avoided by following the well signed ‘alternative Pennine Way’ fingerpost at NT776080 and rejoining the main path at NT790096.
p273 Transport:  Scott at Border Villager Taxi 01668216360, mobile 07765791348, was punctual and reliable for our transfer from Kirk Yetholm to Berwick Station.

June 2015

p119, Hebden Bridge.  Hebden Bridge Hostel. A dorm bed costs £20, a 4-bed dorm is £75 whilst a twin costs £55 and a double/triple is £60/£75 (all with bedding included)  Budget beds available in the bunk room at £14 - bring your own bedding.


28 April 2015

p107 Marsden. The Great Western Inn has a sign in the window, closed till further notice.

p124. Heptonstall. NEW!  The Hebden Bridge Loop. To coincide with the 50th anniversary of the Pennine Way, Hebden Bridge Walkers Action has created a waymarked route to the town and back to the Pennine Way via the ancient village of Heptonstall. For more information look at the link: http://www.hebdenbridgeloop.org.uk/


5 March 2015

p230 Knarsdale.  Stonecroft no longer does B & B; the landlady has retired.

Church Cottage now is only available for long term lets, not B & B overnight accommodation.

Kellah Farm (NY660612) Haltwhistle, Northumberland NE49 0JL, does B and B,though it's a fair way on from Knarsdale.


30 September 2014

p208 Map 79.  Where it says Good Track work is taking place on the path, the stone slabs have been lifted and the remaining path is made of rocks and shale; also the signposting has been removed, so it's not clear where to get off the track to the Beck. The slabs are neatly stacked beside the path and it's hoped they will be put back soon.

p226 Map 94a Alston YHA. One walker writes with feedback that the YHA gets his vote for best hostel along the way with free towels, made beds, washing/drying for a pound (which went to the Red Squirrel fund) because their communal washing machine had broken down. Very friendly ladies!

p236 Greenhead.  Old Forge Tea Rooms is open seven days a week from 10.00 am to 4.00 pm. She does good coffee! ( recommended by a walker)

p247 Map 109.  Top of the map, just under Warks Burn, there is only a stile.

p254 Map 114 The cairn on Deer Play has a large two way signpost in it.









Pennine Way: Edale to Kirk Yetholm