These Trailblazer guides … are a godsend for independent travelers.
 — Travel & Leisure

Pennine Way: Edale to Kirk Yetholm

by: Chris Scott & Keith Carter & Jim Manthorpe & Edward de la Billière & Stuart Greig


Updated information

Thank you to readers who sent in updated information, including Mick Brewster, Jonathan Brown, Paul Higinbotham, Bill Gallon, Chairman of the Pennine Way Association, Chris Sainty, Dave Carroll, Simon and Sylvia, Nichola Hele, Iain Chippendale, Willemijn W, Stuart Blackburne, Vinny Whalley, Mick Scarfe, Mike Cowley, Simon Hall, Kevin Blick, Tony Hufton, Jolyon Neely, John Smithson.

The information has not yet been checked by Trailblazer but will be for the next edition.

Updated information for the 4th edition



p202 Holwick.  High Force Hotel. The telephone number is 01833 622336


p138 Thornton-in-Craven. Transdev bus Lancashire United. The X43 transdev bus ('The Witchway') has a half-hourly service to and from Barnoldswick, where there is accommodation - The Fountain Inn on Church Street single room ~ £37 and recommended  dinner around £15-£20.
The X43 is a Manchester - Skipton service and Thornton - Barnoldswick takes about 15 minutes.


Ickornshaw.   Squirrel Wood Campsite. Squirrel Wood Cottage, Ickornshaw, Cowling, North Yorkshire BD22 ODB.  Tel: 07973 353027.


p219 Map 87 Cross Fell. A reader reported his challenging crossing of Cross Fell and recommended walkers take extra care here.   The cross shelter is marked on the map on the wrong side of the trig point.  Also be aware of the Helm Wind which is particular to Cross Fell and can whip up suddenly and (as the strongest wind in England) can be extremely dangerous to an ill equipped walker.


p141 Map 34 Thornton-in-Craven.  Thornton Hall Country Park, Thornton-in-Craven, near Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 3TS  (just off the route) has a cafe which you can use without paying entry to the farm park. Might be handy as the village has nothing similar.

p115 Map 20: there is currently a diversion of the path around Warland Resevoir. This seems to be temporary.
p190 Bowes. The Ancient Unicorn Inn, Bowes, Barnard Castle DL12 9HL has re-opened and seems to be thriving.
p196 Map 70. A walker reported the path is now on the other side of the wall. He did not see a rail sleeper guide post.
p206 Langdon Beck.  Langdon Beck Hotel is recommended as in the guidebook.
p208 Map 79.  One walker reports a possibly new track from Birkdale Farm therefore makes the subsequent directions hard to follow. Be careful to check the map here.
p222 Garrigil. St Johns House B&B, Garrigill CA9 3DS with a nice friendly vibe (next door to the still-closed pub). It's not expensive and a walker reported they had a delicious evening meal. They have a bar and restaurant that’s open to non-residents.
p227 Alston to Greenhead.   Kellah Farm B&B, Haltwhistle NE49 0JL isa quarter of a mile or so off the path.  It's a working farm.
p266 Byrness to Kirk Yetholm. Cocklawfoot Farm B&B  an easy 2.5 mile walk down from the ridge. A walker comments: "They give you a lift back up to the path in the morning in an off-road vehicle. They provide evening meal which is essential because of the remoteness. This is a good option because it means you can finish your walk at Kirk Yetholm by lunchtime then get back home that evening."


p268 Upper Coquetdale. Barrowburn cafe, Deer Hut and camp location closed at the end of November 2016.

September 2016

p117 Map 21 Stoodley Pike. The Gallery is accessible.

pp126-9 Maps 25 to 28. Midges near reservoirs.  We've had the following comment from a walker about the problem of midges:  "Walkers should not underestimate the ferocity of an attack by midges. I met with three other walkers and we all had similar experiences on a still day walking past the reservoirs. The place with two footbridges on map 25 was very bad with midges."

p109 Map 15. If staying at The Carriage House, there is a footpath on the opposite side of the main road, that joins the Pennine Way, and avoids having to walk on the road.

p112 Map 17.
The tea van on the A672 has a new proprietor, now Monday to Friday from 06:00 to 13:00, drinks and light snacks.

p114 Map 19.
The fingerpost at the start of Warland Reservoir can be misleading, do not use the lower path.

p117 Map 21.
Between Stoodley Pike and the Gap Stile there are 3 equally spaced yellow topped posts.

p118 Map 22. 
At bottom of the map, before the finger post, the path to the right is the start of the Hebden Bridge Loop, which probably deserves a mention.

The "Bridge" by the A646, marked on the lower margin, should be named "Callis Bridge". This would then match with names seen on finger posts on the way down from Stoodley Pike.

p136 Ickornshaw. Squirrel Wood Camping, Squirrel Wood Cottage, Ickornshaw, Cowling, North Yorkshire BD22 0DB. Opened in 2016. Tel: 07973353027.

p143 Earby. The Red Lion no longer does food.

July 2016

p116 Todmorden. Two Hoots Guest House B&B, Lee Bottom Road,Todmorden OL14 6HH just below Stoodley Pike. Tel: 07792 447 356.


June 2016

p176 Hardraw. Bunkhouse - relatively new and is still being renovated but beds are available.

p195 Baldersdale. The Clove Lodge is looking to sell up.

p199 Middleton. Cafe 1618 is for sale.

p268 Map 128, Byrness to Kirk Yetholm. Cocklawfoot Farm B&B,
Yetholm, Kelso, Scottish Borders TD5 8QA.  Tel: 01573 420231. At the four way fingerpost Cocklawfoot is signposted, 2.2 miles downhill.  In the morning they will give you a lift back to the route. .


p123 Colden.  The New Delight Inn (tel 01422 844628 ; bar Mon 5-11pm, Tue-Thur noon-3.00pm & 5-11pm, Fri -Sun noon-11pm; food served Tue-Fri noon-3.00pm & in addition on Fri 5-8pm, Sat-Sun noon-8.00pm), at Jack Bridge, provides a haven for thirsty or just plain miserable Pennine Way walkers with a friendly atmosphere and a well-tended cellar.
Camping is also offered with facilities including toilets, hot shower, electric hook up and gas. Book by phone and they say 'let us know you're Pennine Way and we will always find space.'


p252 Bellingham.  Lynn View B&B is now closed, the owners have retired.

Map 21- Stoodley Pike - you mention the gallery is accessible but all access appears to be bricked up.

Map 22- Mytholm - signage is not clear once you cross the main road. Once under the railway bridge it's straight up the hill on the very steep cobbled way. Never saw a sign.

Map 31- Ickornshaw - No problem coming down off the hills but emerging onto road you have to turn left and walk up past the bus shelter before taking the steps down into the village. No official signage when I was there but a large PW painted on the wall near the steps.

Signage in the village was non existent.

Map 44- Highest point on Fountains Fell is nearer the PW path than FF Tarn. The guide map shows it the other side. The next highest point beyond the tarn is not the 'summit'. Dont trust your eyes.

Map 94- Alston - Great Spar at petrol station just off way as you come down from YHA. Open long hours.

Map 105- Once Brewed - demolished. Currently building a new hostel and visitor centre opening 2017.

Map 107- Jenkins Burn - below Hadrians wall. 4" deep water despite very dry condition. Slabs slippy. Hold onto handrail.

Map 111- 2 tall GP on brow of hill broken out of the ground. Not visible until you are on top of them.

Map 114- Just after gps 261 - 'plank across gully' now a substantial stone and shale bridge.

p274 The Border Hotel, Kirk Yethom.   Arrived in the middle of the afternoon dripping wet through. The couple running the pub couldn't have been more hospitable, friendly or interested in my journey. I never did get their names but they were great.


May 2016

Bowes, Barnard Castle. The Ancient Unicorn, The Street, Bowes, Barnard Castle, Co Durham DL12 9H is open with 12 new letting rooms, an all day coffee shop and great bar meals after a total refurbishment.  Tel:  01833 628576.


November 2015

Opening in May 2016, 1¼ miles north of Keld on the Pennine Way: Frith Lodge Keld (☎ 01748 886489;; 3D/2T en suite; Ⓛ £6; evening meal from £15). B&B for £47.50pp.

July 2015

p 193, Map 69.  No accommodation at Clove Lodge (currently for sale); The Fox and Hounds at Cotherstone picked us up, provided a very comfortable night’s b and b and returned us to the Way at Baldersdale the following morning.
p197 Map 71. Immediately after Wythes Farm at the gate; footpath and bridleway signs in opposite directions. Neither has acorn or PW sign, not immediately clear which route to take (right, footpath). The ‘awkward poorly fitting metal gate..’ was no worse than any other. Thereafter the path vastly improves to become a lovely grassy track.
p203, Map 75. ‘The view of High Force is hindered by ....’:  there are two excellent viewpoints, one downstream and one on the lip of the waterfall – most impressive.
The ‘rocky path’ is well made and easy; the stones are small.
p204, Map 76. Path is very well signed through Cronkley Farm.
p204, Map 79. After Grain Beck the (newly laid military?) path is made of stone chippings – uncomfortable and awkward to walk on. Arrow on marker post very unclear; it’s all too easy to continue to follow the chippings track up Rasp Hill. A stone on the rhs also helps identify the spot to leave the track.
p219, Map 88. Corpse Road is not as bad as the uncomfortable chippings after Grain Beck.
p221, Map 90. If walking on to Alston, Garrigill can be bypassed at the sharp right hand turn on the Corpse Road by following the signed footpath on the left.
p222. HSBC bank in Alston is now closed.
p233, Map 99. A smart new stone now stands beside the old fallen, hidden stone.
p234, Map 100. Kellah Farm (Tel: 01434 320816) for overnight stop: highly recommended. Turn right on lane or take footpath at Ulpham Farm.
p250, Map 112.  Accommodation at Bellingham: it’s well worth the extra mile (or lift from the landlady) down Boat Lane to stay at Boat Farm (Tel: 01434 220989) for a generous welcome and extremely comfortable accommodation in idyllic surroundings.
p250, Map 112.  ‘Head NE to brow of hill’ should read ‘Head NNW’.
p262-3, Maps 122 and 123. The descent and subsequent ascent near Chew Green can be avoided by following the well signed ‘alternative Pennine Way’ fingerpost at NT776080 and rejoining the main path at NT790096.
p273 Transport:  Scott at Border Villager Taxi 01668216360, mobile 07765791348, was punctual and reliable for our transfer from Kirk Yetholm to Berwick Station.

June 2015

p119, Hebden Bridge.  Hebden Bridge Hostel. A dorm bed costs £20, a 4-bed dorm is £75 whilst a twin costs £55 and a double/triple is £60/£75 (all with bedding included)  Budget beds available in the bunk room at £14 - bring your own bedding.


28 April 2015

p107 Marsden. The Great Western Inn has a sign in the window, closed till further notice.

p124. Heptonstall. NEW!  The Hebden Bridge Loop. To coincide with the 50th anniversary of the Pennine Way, Hebden Bridge Walkers Action has created a waymarked route to the town and back to the Pennine Way via the ancient village of Heptonstall. For more information look at the link:


5 March 2015

p230 Knarsdale.  Stonecroft no longer does B & B; the landlady has retired.

Church Cottage now is only available for long term lets, not B & B overnight accommodation.

Kellah Farm (NY660612) Haltwhistle, Northumberland NE49 0JL, does B and B,though it's a fair way on from Knarsdale.


30 September 2014

p208 Map 79.  Where it says Good Track work is taking place on the path, the stone slabs have been lifted and the remaining path is made of rocks and shale; also the signposting has been removed, so it's not clear where to get off the track to the Beck. The slabs are neatly stacked beside the path and it's hoped they will be put back soon.

p226 Map 94a Alston YHA. One walker writes with feedback that the YHA gets his vote for best hostel along the way with free towels, made beds, washing/drying for a pound (which went to the Red Squirrel fund) because their communal washing machine had broken down. Very friendly ladies!

p236 Greenhead.  Old Forge Tea Rooms is open seven days a week from 10.00 am to 4.00 pm. She does good coffee! ( recommended by a walker)

p247 Map 109.  Top of the map, just under Warks Burn, there is only a stile.

p254 Map 114 The cairn on Deer Play has a large two way signpost in it.









Pennine Way: Edale to Kirk Yetholm