Trailblazer Guide Books

Practical guidebooks for the more adventurous traveller.
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OVERLAND TRAVEL OPTIONS

'Just leaving one's homeland is to accomplish half the Dharma'
Tibetan adage

There are several options for overland travel in Tibet. Flights are available into Lhasa (except during the winter months) and many independent travellers opt to fly one way then travel overland once in Lhasa. However, given that there are no internal flights in Tibet, in order to visit any main sights travellers will need to arrange some form of overland transportation (public bus, hired 4WD vehicle or bicycle).

Jeep tours
The most common trip is to fly one way and join a group with a jeep-hire to travel the Friendship Highway in the other direction. These trips can be organized through package-tour companies in Kathmandu or Lhasa. Alternatively, independent travellers can make their own way to Lhasa by bus, hitching or cycling (and do the same by way of return). (See pp58-9 for information on renting a four-wheel drive vehicle and public buses).

Mountain-bike tours
First, there are tour companies in Kathmandu that run organized and authorized mountain-bike tours from Lhasa to Kathmandu. The operators will arrange all permits and visas and transport you to Lhasa. You then cycle back to Kathmandu, followed by a support vehicle, which will carry your gear – and you if required.

The benefits of organized cycle tours are three-fold. First, you will not have to deal with any permit issues and will not be confronted with the risk of finding yourself permit-less in a region. Second, the support vehicle makes life altogether easier because carrying panniers full of food and gear is hard work at 5000m-plus. The support vehicle and guides are available to deal with any emergency posed by traffic accidents or altitude problems. Third, it is almost invariably quicker to undertake, for example, the Friendship Highway, in an organized tour group.

The downside is expense and lack of freedom to alter your course or spend an extra few days at particular places. A reliable operator in Nepal is Himalayan Mountain Bikes (website www.bikeasia.info) – see p173 for details.

Independent cyclists
Alternatively, you can ‘go it alone’. Independent cyclists in Tibet are still rare enough for the Chinese authorities not to pay them too much concern. Therefore, unless you do something particularly stupid to draw attention to yourself, the likelihood is that you will be left alone to quietly meander through the countryside. The downside is that if you run into any trouble with the locals, or become involved in an accident or medical emergency, you may find that the authorities are not particularly sympathetic. The risk is relatively small and if you are properly prepared in terms of equipment, safety and local political issues, it should not be too difficult to minimize it even more.

If you do decide to go it alone, you need to think carefully about the best way to get to your starting point. See pp43-46 for the main options, and the pros and cons of each. Your decision will depend a lot on where you are arriving from and the amount of time available to you. You will also need to consider what type of bike and gear to take. All of these issues are covered below.

WHEN TO GO

Tibet has an extreme climate and harsh conditions. It was created from the Indian continent colliding with the Eurasian land mass around three million years ago. The collision thrust up from the bottom of the sea what is now the Tibetan plateau and moulded the landscape to produce the Himalayan mountain range.

The altitude in Tibet ranges from 2000m to over 8000m. In central Tibet, the average altitude is almost 4000m. The height brings with it extreme temperatures and the land is often covered in snow. The lowest temperatures in winter will reach around -40C. Midday in summer can be as hot as 38C. The rainfall is limited to 25-50cm per year, most of it falling within a three-month period (from June to August).

Essentially, travellers may visit Tibet at any time of the year and cyclists have made the journey from Golmud to Lhasa in the middle of winter. However, the climatic conditions in Tibet are harsh at best and, accordingly, weather-related obstacles may be minimized by travelling at certain times of the year. The spring and autumn months are the best time for overland travel in Tibet. The ideal window for mountain biking is from September to November.

Seasons
Spring (March-May) – Cold, dry and windy Spring is exceedingly windy and sandstorms make travel, particularly by cycle, extremely unpleasant. Cyclists have been known to make the trip at this time of the year but usually the only way to tolerate the shocking sandstorms is to cycle by night when the winds have dropped. This is not a good way to take in the scenery and visibility problems at night make cycling dangerous.

Summer (June-August) – Cool and wet but hot at noon Summer is very wet. The rainy season is from June to August and many of the rivers flood during this period, making them impossible to ford by bicycle (and often even by four-wheel drive vehicle).

Autumn (September-November) – Cold and dry Autumn is the ideal season for overland travel in Tibet. The rains are usually over by the end of September and the rivers subside by October. By arriving in Tibet during September you will benefit from the long hot sunny days of summer's end and miss the rain. In early September it is better to make shorter trips to the north and east, saving the Friendship Highway and other routes heading south until the end of September or beginning of October. The Friendship Highway journey can be made comfortably until the end of November – after that time it becomes too cold and heavy snow on the passes makes crossing impossible.

Winter (December-February) – Cold and extremely dry Winter is just plain cold. There are no problems with rain or sandstorms during the winter and the visibility on clear days can be spectacular but it is simply too cold to be out in the open – particularly over exposed mountain passes – without serious equipment for those conditions. Another problem in winter time (from November to February) is that Lhasa airport is closed. At the same time, the high mountain passes on the roads often become impossible to cross.

VISAS AND PERMITS

How much a dunce that has been sent to roam
Excels a dunce that has been kept at home!
From The Progress of Error, William Cooper

Getting in and out of Tibet without incident requires planning and preparation. The two key considerations are where and how to obtain a visa and permit, and which entry point to use.

For political and security reasons, China has actively discouraged independent travel into Tibet. Group travel is often the only ‘official’ way to enter the country. Besides a Chinese visa, a travel permit is required just to enter Tibet. Once inside Tibet, many places are closed to individual travellers and an Aliens’ Travel Permit (see p21) is required to get around.

Travel to Tibet is subject to an important caveat. Things change and the official position in relation to foreign visitors is extremely fluid. Certain key anniversary dates, such as the Lhasa Uprising (14 March), lead to increased security controls over tourists in Lhasa. Events such as the escape of the 10th Karmapa Lama in December 1999 caused an immediate crackdown on border security. There are no guarantees with China and a policy on visas and entry points that applies one week may change completely the next (check out website: www.tibetinfo.net or any of the other websites listed on p15 for the latest travel regulations in Tibet).

The main overland routes into Tibet are from Kathmandu in the south, Kashgar in the west, Golmud in the north and Chengdu (Sichuan) or Kunming (Yunnan) in the east. The only overland border that is officially open to individuals is the border on the route from Golmud. However, intrepid individuals, including cyclists, have successfully made it across each of these overland routes (albeit sometimes under cover of night).

Where and how to sort out your visa may depend on whether you intend to travel overland or fly into Lhasa. Many travellers decide to visit Tibet after they arrive in Kathmandu, Nepal. If your intention is to join a tour or organized group cycle tour, Kathmandu is an excellent place to book such a trip. However, until recently the Chinese embassy in Nepal would not issue visas for tourists wishing to travel independently in Tibet but currently independent travellers are reporting that they are being given visas here. Note that this could change at any time.

To enter Tibet you must have a Chinese visa and a travel permit.

Visas
You may apply for a Chinese visa in your country of origin or somewhere else en route such as Hong Kong, Delhi, Islamabad or Bangkok. Most Chinese embassies will grant independent travellers a 30-day Chinese visa without too much difficulty.

Where to get your visa
Local Chinese embassy To apply for a visa your passport must be valid for at least three months after the period of the intended visit. When applying, it is advisable not to mention that you intend to travel to Tibet (state anything else such as Beijing, Xian, or Shanghai). If you require a visa for more than 30 days, and this may be necessary if you intend to embark on overland routes other than the Friendship Highway, you will need to shop around a little. For example, the Chinese embassies in Amsterdam, Paris, Birmingham and Hong Kong issue three-month visas to independent travellers. Most other Chinese embassies, including London, Wellington and Sydney, will offer only one-month visas.

While applying for your Chinese visa, you may also wish to obtain a visa for the country that you are likely to enter upon your departure from Tibet (although short-term transit visas can be obtained for Nepal and India at the border crossings).

Chinese embassy in Nepal It is probably best to avoid trying to obtain a visa in Kathmandu unless your intention is to join a tour group. The on again, off again policy relating to issuing individuals with a visa is frustrating and although it's currently possible the situation may change at any time, in particular during politically sensitive periods. If the embassy is not issuing visas to individuals when you arrive you will be forced to travel with an organized tour group and you will only be able to obtain a 5-14 day visa through a travel agency. Note that the embassy will usually cancel any other valid Chinese visa in your passport.

Chinese embassy in Hong Kong Hong Kong is the most reliable place to obtain a three or even six-month Chinese visa. Bear in mind that, post-1994, Hong Kong is once more a part of China so you will first need to check that you can enter Hong Kong on your passport without a visa. Chinese visas are obtainable from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs visa office, 5th floor, Low Block, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Rd, Wanchai. The 30-day visa costs HK$100 for next-day service or HK$250 same day.

A reliable and more convenient place to get a visa in Hong Kong is Shoestring Travel (Flat A, 4/F, Alpha House, 27-33 Nathan Road, Kowloon; email: shoetvl@hkstar.com). A three-month visa costs HK$180 (single entry) and can be processed over two working days, while HK$380 ensures same day delivery. A six-month visa can also be arranged within a few days for HK$700 without the usual requirements for business invitations and references.

Visa extensions
It is possible to extend a tourist visa at the ‘Foreign Affairs Section’ of the Public Security Bureau (PSB) in most main cities inside China including Chengdu, Xining, and Kunming. Usually you will get a one-month extension the first time and two to four weeks the second time. A third extension is difficult to obtain.

However, once inside Tibet it is difficult to get any extension, especially in Lhasa. If you can get an extension in Lhasa it may only be for a week and you'll almost certainly have to provide evidence that you will be leaving Tibet (eg a flight ticket to Kathmandu). Some travellers have had more success going through travel agents or trying in Shigatse. It is best to assume that you won't get an extension in Tibet and you should therefore try to obtain the longest possible visa you can before arriving.

Travel permits
Group Travel Permit Foreigners are told they officially require a travel permit in addition to their visa to enter Tibet (this is not the case for other provinces in China), but most travellers have never seen one of these permits.

When you purchase an airfare (eg Chengdu/Lhasa or Kathmandu/Lhasa) or bus fare (eg Golmud/Lhasa) along the main overland routes the travel agent acquires both the ticket and permit on your behalf (as part of a ‘five-person group�). There is no indication of the permit in your passport and inspections are rarely carried out to check for it. Basically the travel permit is a piece of paper outlining the ‘group itinerary’ and sometimes (but not always) listing the names of the group participants. It is advisable to ask for a photocopy of your group permit in case you do get separated from your group.

Aliens’ Travel Permit (ATP) In the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) many places are officially closed to foreigners. Before you visit key sights outside Lhasa (such as Samye or Chongye) you need an Aliens’ Travel Permit (ATP) indicating your destinations. This is obtained from the local Public Security Bureau (PSB) in each region.

An ATP is not required for some main open towns, including Lhasa, Shigatse, Tsetang, Nyalam, Zhangmu (in Tibetan Dram), Purang, Nakchu and for other sites such as Ganden and Lake Nam Tso. If you go to the PSB and ask, they will either tell you that you need one and take your money accordingly or say you need one but won't issue them to individuals. In the latter scenario you may be able to obtain the relevant ATP by chartering a vehicle (via a travel agent). The situation gets even more confusing when the PSB abruptly changes the open status of key destinations (usually following some anti-Chinese activity).

In reality, ATPs are not checked at many places and most people simply do not obtain one. However, if you are planning to travel along the Lhasa-Kathmandu road (known as the Friendship Highway) and, in particular, make the side trips to Everest North Base Camp and Sakya, you may be checked for a permit. Other areas where the PSB have become more thorough in their inspection for ATPs are at Samye (ferry depot), Mt Kailash and bigger towns along the main overland roads. If you do not have an ATP you will be fined and possibly not permitted to enter those places (the amount of fine depends on the place and the official). Those foreigners who rent 4WD vehicles for specific tours (eg a visit to Mt Kailash) will obtain the required permits automatically via their travel agent.

If you do arrive in a closed area it will pay to be inconspicuous and leave swiftly. If you require accommodation many towns allow foreigners to stay at designated hotels only, which generally charge foreigners outrageous prices. Also the PSB may visit and enquire why you are there before fining you and making sure you depart as soon as possible. Because of the difficulties in arranging ATPs for individuals in Lhasa many overlanders wait until they reach Shigatse to apply for a permit from the local PSB. At the time of research the Shigatse PSB were more favourable to issuing ATPs (for a fee) and would even include specific reference to the fact that you are permitted to travel by bicycle (if you ask nicely and pay even more). Make sure the PSB officer writes down every town you intend to pass through or visit on your intended trip.

Cyclists and ATPs It is legal to travel independently from Lhasa to Shigatse without a permit (because they are both open areas). This is normally a 5hr bus ride. However, for cyclists who travel the Southern Friendship Highway (and nearly all do), it can take up to six days to reach Shigatse. Clearly the current policy does not take into account the time-scale for cycling, and as a result cyclists seem to be able to take advantage and make the trip from Lhasa to Shigatse without a permit. However, to be on the safe side, some cyclists still have gone to the effort of visiting Shigatse for a day from Lhasa (by bus) to obtain a permit prior to commencing their cycle tour from Lhasa.

It is possible to book an organized cycle tour in Tibet. The tour operators will arrange the necessary visas and permits for you. Generally, such tours take 5-10 people and are for the duration of approximately 15 days – which will take you from Lhasa to Kathmandu. A guide and support vehicle will be included. The support vehicle will carry your panniers and equipment and also assist slower riders.

Independent cyclists travelling overland into Tibet will not have the correct permits and could be turned back, fined and/or have cycles confiscated by vigilant PSB officers at any point during their trip. Most cyclists try to overcome this problem by passing through particular ‘checkpoints and hot spots’ under the cover of night. (See the Route Guide in this book for more information on these longer overland routes including the location of main checkpoints).

Other permits
For certain areas an ATP is not sufficient and other permits may be required as well, particularly in border areas or military zones (eg ‘military permits’ are required for Aba prefecture or the Kyirong region). Other special permits include cultural permits to visit sites of cultural importance. All military and other special permits can only be obtained through a travel agent.

Costs
The cost of your visit will, of course, depend upon the type of trip you choose. Tibet (and China) is generally more expensive for the visitor than neighbouring India or Nepal. At the lower end of the market, most foreigners can get by on ‘7-10/US$10-15 per day (food and accommodation only). If you're not cycling or hitching rides on trucks, transport costs can be high: since there are not many buses you'll have to rent a car and driver. See p59 for some sample prices and itineraries.

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