Guides that will send you packing.
— Today
Japan by Rail
by: Ramsey Zarifeh & Anna Udagawa
UPDATES
5TH EDITION - updates and additional information
General information
As in much of the world, costs in Japan are rising so expect fares, entry charges, food and accommodation prices to be higher than quoted in the text. Tourist rates are also being introduced in many places which will also increase costs. It is also recommended that you check opening days and hours through the relevant website before going to a museum/gallery etc as these can easily change and places may close – temporarily for refurbishment or permanently.
p6 COVID-19 boxed text
It is not necessary to have any (PCR) tests before going to Japan or on arrival. It is also no longer necessary to show a valid vaccination certificate or a Covid-19 Negative test certificate when you enter Japan. Mask-wearing is now a matter of personal choice. Places such as hotels, restaurants, museums and shops may still encourage people to use hand sanitiser.
pp7-8 Why take the train?
p8 Sadly the text: ‘The real secret to touring the country is the Japan Rail Pass, deservedly recognised as ‘the bargain of the century’ is no longer accurate. See below for more information.
pp15-16 Costs
p15 Even though costs of virtually everything in Japan have gone up because the yen exchange rate is beneficial to tourists Japan is very good value at the moment and thus the overall costs aren’t much different from those quoted in the book.
PART 1: PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Rail passes
pp29-30 THE JAPAN RAIL PASS
p29 Sadly due to the price increases (see below) the Japan Rail Pass is no longer the bargain of the century unless you plan to travel on several long shinkansen (bullet train) journeys, though we don’t know anyone who doesn’t enjoy being on a shinkansen.
pp29-30 (Buying the Japan Rail Pass) and pp39-40 (How to use the Japan Rail Pass)
However you bought your Japan Rail Pass the actual pass is now, in effect, a machine-readable ticket. At ticket gates it can only be used at machines with a slot to insert tickets – some machines are dedicated IC card machines – though there will always be at least one such machine, usually more.
The increase in the cost (see below) of the Japan Rail Pass means that unless you travel a lot and for long distances it will be hard to get value from a 7- or 14-day pass.
Apart from the cost the only significant change to the Japan Rail Pass announced so far is that pass-holders can now travel on Nozomi/Mizuho services subject to an additional charge depending on the distance travelled. For example, the additional charge for a Nozomi ticket from Tokyo/Shinagawa to Kyoto or Shin-Osaka is ¥4960 and to Hiroshima is ¥6500. From Shin-Osaka to Hakata is ¥4960 and from Hakata to Kagoshima-Chuo on a Mizuho service is ¥4500. These tickets can only be bought for journeys during the validity of your Japan Rail Pass.
As long as you include one long shinkansen journey, such as going to Nagasaki (¥27,000 one-way) or Kagoshima (Kagoshima-Chuo; ¥29,360 one-way) in Kyushu from Tokyo, or north to Hakodate (¥23,760 one-way) in Hokkaido you could still get value from the pass, but it will be worth planning your itinerary and then work out the likely travel costs and compare those to the price of the Japan Rail Pass.
The regional JR passes now may be worth considering if you don’t want to travel too much. However, many of them have increased in price as well. And the real bonus of the Japan Rail Pass has always been its flexibility as you can travel wherever you want unlike the regional passes where you are restricted to a particular area. For more information see Itinerary planning below.
p30 JAPAN RAIL PASS PRICES boxed text
The dollar equivalent for the 7-day Green class pass should say $387 not $37. However, note that the cost of Japan Rail passes has now changed – see below for the details – and therefore also the equivalent exchange rates.
Since 1st October 2023 there has only been one price for all Japan Rail Pass options so the cost is the same whether you buy a pass in Japan or before going. The downside is that prices have increased by 65-74%.
The Ordinary Class 7-/14-/21-day passes now cost ¥50,000/80,000/100,000.
The Green Class 7-/14-/21-day passes now cost ¥70,000/110,000/140,000.
Note: The price for the Japan Rail Pass if bought from an overseas JR designated sales office/agency will increase again on 1 October 2026. At the time of writing the price for Japan Rail Passes bought online through JR are not affected.
The Ordinary Class 7-/14-/21-day passes will then cost ¥53,000/84,000/105,000.
The Green Class 7-/14-/21-day passes will then cost ¥74,000/116,000/147,000.
pp30-7 REGIONAL JR RAIL PASSES
p31 JR REGIONAL PASS PRICES boxed text The prices of many of these passes have also increased and some passes have changed. See the details below.
• JR East
5-day JR East Pass ¥35,000
10-day JR East Pass ¥50,000
• JR East & JR West
7-day Hokuriku Arch Pass This pass now costs ¥35,000 and is valid on the new shinkansen services from Kanazawa to Tsuruga (since March 2024) – and of course from there to Kyoto/Osaka on a limited express service.
• JR East & JR Hokkaido
6-day now not 5-day JR East-South Hokkaido Rail Pass ¥40,000 instead of ¥27,000 (Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate Hokuto round trip about ¥47,500 so as long as do that or an equivalent journey you will save money)
6-day now not 5-day JR Tohoku-South Hokkaido Rail Pass ¥32000 instead of ¥24,000
• JR West
7-day All Area Pass ¥26,000 instead of ¥23,000 (unlimited seat reservations now)
7-day Kansai Hokuriku Area Pass ¥19,000 instead of ¥17,000
7-day Sanyo Sanin Area Pass ¥23,000 instead of ¥20,000 (unlimited seat reservations now)
7-day Kansai Sanin Area Pass ¥18,000
5-day Kansai Wide Area Pass ¥12,000 instead of ¥10,000 (unlimited seat reservations now)
5-day Kansai Hiroshima Area Pass ¥17,000 instead of ¥15,000 (unlimited seat reservations now)
5-day Hiroshima Yamaguchi Area Pass ¥15,000 instead of ¥13,000 (unlimited seat reservations now)
5-day Okayama Hiroshima Yamaguchi Area Pass ¥17,000 instead of ¥15,000 (unlimited seat reservations now)
4-day Sanin Okayama Area Pass This is no longer available.
4-day Hokuriku Area Pass ¥7000 instead of ¥5090
1/2/3/4 days Kansai Area Pass ¥2800/4800/5800/7000 instead of ¥2400/4600/5600/6800 (includes seat reservation for Haruka Limited Express service only but only twice ie to and from the airport)
There is also a Kansai Wide Area Excursion Pass 3-day ¥12,000 (unlimited seat reservations)
• JR Central (Tokai)
5-day Alpine Takayama Matsumoto Pass ¥24,500 instead of ¥18,600
3-day Mt Fuji Shizuoka Area Tourist Pass Mini ¥6500
• JR West & JR Central (Tokai)
5-day Takayama Hokuriku Area Pass ¥19,800 instead of ¥14,260 (valid for up to six seat reservations now)
5-day Ise Kumano Wakayama Area Pass ¥16,500 instead of ¥11,210 (valid for up to six seat reservations now)
• JR West & JR Kyushu (Note: This is a new pass)
7-day Sanyo-Sanin Northern Kyushu Pass ¥26,000 (unlimited seat reservations now)
• JR West & JR Shikoku
5-day Setouchi Area Pass ¥22,000 instead of ¥19,000 (unlimited seat reservations now)
• JR Hokkaido (Note: rail pass prices quoted here are from April 2025)
5-day ¥22,000 instead of ¥19,000
7-day ¥28,000 instead of ¥25,000
10-day ¥37,000 (new in October 2023)
Other passes are Sapporo Noboribetsu Area Pass (4-day; ¥10,000 from April 2025) and Sapporo Furano Area Pass (4-day; ¥11,000 from April 2025)
(All ¥1000 extra if bought in Japan)
• JR Kyushu
3-/5-/7-day All Area ¥22,000/24,000/26,000 instead of ¥17,000/18,500/20,000
3-/5-day Northern Kyushu ¥15,000/17,000 instead of ¥10,000/14,000
3-day Southern Kyushu ¥12,000 instead of ¥8000
There is a discount of ¥1000 for any pass bought online through the JR Kyushu website.
• JR Shikoku
3-/4-/5-/7-day pass ¥12,000/15,000/17,000/20,000 instead of ¥9000/10,000/11,000/13,000
If bought in Japan they cost ¥500 extra
A ‘Reserved seat’ book of tickets, now ¥1200, can be used for four reserved seat tickets on the JR Seto-Ohashi Line from Kojima towards the south and on Tosa Kuroshio Railway.
p32 SEISHUN 18 (JUCHACHI) KIPPU boxed text
Major changes to this pass were introduced in October 2024.
The ticket is now also available as a 3-day (¥10,000) pass; the 5-day pass still costs ¥12,050. However, now, either ticket must be used by the same person and on consecutive days. A bonus though is that it can be used at automatic ticket gates.
The option ticket for getting to Hokkaido (see box p362) now costs ¥4650 but it can be taken from/to Shin-Aomori rather than having to go to Okutsugaru-Imabetsu.
pp32-3 JR East rail passes
• JR East Pass JR East has ended the sale of its separate JR East Tohoku and Nagano, Niigata passes and now offers a pass (for 5 or 10 days) that is valid for the whole JR East region. You can buy more than one pass so that you can travel for a longer period.
• JR Tokyo Wide Pass This now costs ¥16,000 (£83/US$110) instead of ¥10,180.
p33 JR East & JR West rail pass
The Hokuriku Arch Pass is valid on the extension of the Hokuriku shinkansen to Tsuruga which started in March 2024.
pp34-35 JR West rail passes The Kansai-Hokuriku Area Pass and the Hokuriku Area Pass are valid on the extension of the Hokuriku shinkansen to Tsuruga. For details of the Hokuriku Area Pass see www.westjr.co.jp/global/en/ticket/pass/hokuriku/.
• Sanin Okayama Area Pass This pass is no longer available.
p35 KANSAI THRU PASS boxed text
This pass is now called Kansai Railway Pass and it is available as a 2- or 3-day pass (¥5600/7000) but a bonus is that they can be used on non-consecutive days. It is possible to buy up to three passes. It is generally the same as the Kansai Thru Pass though doesn’t now include buses.
pp35-6 JR Central (Tokai) & JR West rail passes
• Takayama Hokuriku Area Pass This is also valid on the extension of the Hokuriku shinkansen from Kanazawa to Tsuruga.
GETTING A RAIL PASS
p37, p38 & p39 Japan Experience Japan Experience is now authorised to sell JR train tickets for journeys between major cities in Japan
Itinerary planning
pp41-4 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES WITH A JAPAN RAIL PASS
Until October 2023 it was easy to get value from a Japan Rail Pass even with a 7-day pass but now that the prices have gone up so much it is important to plan where you want to go first and then work out whether a Japan Rail Pass would still be worth getting, or whether one or more of the many regional rail passes would provide better value. Often they will but the below will give you more of an idea. See also Timetables below and on p98 in Japan by Rail for information about finding about fares.
p42 Seven-day Pass
The suggested itinerary for the 7-day pass is no longer cost effective as the 7-day Japan Rail Pass now costs ¥50,000 and a return trip from Tokyo to Kyoto would cost approx ¥26,420; however, if you added in a day trip from Kyoto to Himeji or Hiroshima ¥9680/21,550 return plus travel to and from the airport as well as using JR services in Tokyo/Kyoto and or going to Osaka you could get value from a 7-day Pass.
Another option, assuming you are flying into Tokyo or Kansai (Osaka) Airport, is to get the 7-day Hokuriku Arch Pass (¥30,000). However, it would mean the travel time between Tokyo and Kyoto/Osaka is much longer as you have to go via Kanazawa and you wouldn’t pass Mt Fuji on the (Tokaido) shinkansen which is something many people like to do.
Fourteen-day pass: the classic route for a first visit
The suggested itinerary for the 14-day pass could just about be cost effective if you added in some other shinkansen journeys.
The approximate cost – this varies seasonally and depends on the service chosen – with reserved seats (which would be free if you had a Japan Rail Pass) are:
Tokyo to Nagano ¥8140
Nagano to Kanazawa ¥8920
Kanazawa to Kyoto ¥7520
Kyoto to Hiroshima ¥10,770
Hiroshima to Odawara ¥17,380
(Hakone is not included as travel in that area is on private rather than JR services.
Odawara to Tokyo ¥3280
Total ¥56,010
Note: All fares quoted are one-way
So, the (approximate) total cost is ¥23,990 less than the cost of a 14-day Japan Rail Pass (¥80,000) now, though the journeys listed do not include travel to and from the airport, or within Tokyo, or to/from Osaka if visited from Kyoto etc.
If you added in some a day trip eg from Tokyo to Nikko (approx ¥11,360 return) or from Kyoto to Himeji (approx ¥10,240 return) you could make the pass cost effective but this would mean quite a bit more travel which you may not want.
You can compare this suggested itinerary with the one outlined in the Itineraries with a regional rail pass below.
p43 Fourteen-day pass: off-the-beaten track
This itinerary would no longer be cost effective with a 14-day Japan Rail Pass. It would probably now be easiest to buy individual tickets!
Twenty-one day pass This could be cost effective especially if you went to Kyushu or the Tohoku region and Hokkaido as there are more shinkansen services there; there are none on Shikoku.
p44 OUR 21-DAY ITINERARY boxed text
This could still be cost effective but since it includes two areas (Koya-san and Hakone) where travel is on private rather than JR services it would be better if one of them (at least) was not included and was replaced with a town or city on a JR service eg both Nagano and Takayama offer nights in temples.
In summary: It is now essential to get a general idea of where you plan to go and then work out the likely travel costs and compare those to the price of the Japan Rail Pass. If it is clear a Japan Rail Pass won’t be good for your plans consider a regional JR pass. This would mean you could focus on specific areas and see them in much more detail rather than rushing around to places all over the country. However, many of them have increased in price as well though not by such a big amount. And the real bonus of the Japan Rail Pass has always been its flexibility as you can travel wherever you want unlike the regional passes where you are restricted to a particular area.
pp44-6 ITINERARIES WITH A REGIONAL RAIL PASS
New itinerary:
14-day suggested itinerary with a 7-day Hokuriku Arch Pass
Days 1-3 Tokyo
Day 3 Tokyo to Nagano (start Hokuriku Arch Pass)
Day 4 Nagano
Day 5 Nagano to Kanazawa
Days 6-7 Kanazawa
Day 8 Kanazawa to Kaga Onsen, Awara Onsen or Fukui
Day 9 Kaga Onsen, Awara Onsen or Fukui
Day 10 Kaga Onsen, Awara Onsen or Fukui to Kyoto/Osaka (end Hokuriku Arch Pass)
Days 11-13 Kyoto/Osaka (Kyoto/Osaka area – 3-day Kansai Area Pass or Kansai Railway Pass)
Day 14 Return to Tokyo by shinkansen
Main travel costs*
Hokuriku Arch Pass ¥35,000
Kansai Area Pass (3-day) ¥ 5,800 (or Kansai Railway Pass ¥7,000)
Shin-Osaka to Tokyo (shinkansen) ¥13,870 inc reserved seat, less with a non-reserved seat
TOTAL ¥53,670
* Additional travel costs are getting from and to the airport as well as around Tokyo. However, including those would still come nowhere near the cost of a 14-day Japan Rail Pass which is ¥80,000 now.
Replacing a visit to Kaga Onsen, Awara Onsen or Fukui with a return trip to Hiroshima (and thus an itinerary that is similar to the 14-day Japan Rail Pass itinerary) from Kyoto would cost approx ¥21,540 (return) more and thus be near the cost of a 14-day Japan Rail Pass once travel to and from the airport and any other spur of the moment journey is included.
pp44-5 Even though JR East no longer offers a Tohoku area or Nagano, Niigata area pass the new JR East Pass covers the whole JR East area so the suggested itineraries are still valid and can be combined/adapted to your preference.
Before you go
p49 PASSPORTS AND VISAS
Post Covid there is still no need for citizens of the countries mentioned to have a visa under the ‘visa reciprocal exemption’ scheme. Citizens of other countries should check the requirements using the MOFA website.
pp51-2 SUGGESTED READING
p51 Travel narratives Off the beaten tracks in Japan A journey by train from Hokkaido to Kyushu by John Dougill
PART 2: JAPAN
Facts about the country
pp58-9 POLITICS
p59 Former prime minister Shinzo Abe was fatally shot in Nara on 8th July 2022 when campaigning on behalf of Kei Sato who was hoping to be re-elected to the Upper House.
pp60-1 THE PEOPLE
p60 The population has shrank to about 122.4 million; it is predicted to be 87 million by 2070.
pp61-2 SPORTS
p61 Traditional sports For more information about Yabusame and for a schedule of events see yabusame.or.jp/yabusame-schedule/.
pp62-4 CULTURE
p62 Geisha in the 21st century In Tokyo, Ishikawa and Niigata Geisha are called Geigi (Kyoto Geiko); maiko trainees are everywhere but in Tokyo they are called Hangyoku. Furumachi is the Geigi area in Niigata
Practical information for visitors
pp64-5 ARRIVING IN JAPAN
Even if you don’t need a visa for a visit to Japan now immigration and customs procedures are generally easier and quicker if you register your personal and travel details in advance of your visit. For details of the fast-track entry process look at the Visit Japan Web website ( vjw-lp.digital.go.jp/en/). This is only available for people with a smartphone but for families and friends travelling together it is fine if only one person has a smartphone.
Be aware that, depending on your time zone and when you apply, you may not confirmation of your Immigration or Customs status until the next day.
Once registered you will get a QR code which can be used at the electronic terminals to speed up the immigration and customs processes. l.
p66 IC (SMART) CARDS boxed text
Digital Welcome Cards (https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/wsmlp/), valid for 180 days, are now available for iPhones. JR West have also introduced digital ICOCA cards for Apple users.
IC cards can’t be used at all (JR) stations in Hokkaido. And not all bus, tram or private railway companies accept IC cards so ensure you have some cash in case you need to buy a ticket – and buy it before boarding whatever you are travelling on.
pp67-74 ACCOMMODATION
p70 HOTEL CHAINS box The website for Dormy Inn is now dormy-hotels.com/en/dormyinn/.
p71 ACCOMMODATION TAXES boxed text
More areas are introducing accommodation taxes – at similar rates as quoted in the book, but in Kyoto they are expected to go up to ¥10,000pp from March 2026 but that will only be for the really top-end accommodation.
p74 SMOKING boxed text
Smoking is no longer permitted, even in the 'smoking' rooms, on any shinkansen (bullet train).
pp79-80 BANKS AND MONEY MATTERS
p79 New banknotes were issued in July 2024. The original notes are still legal tender though.
pp80-2 POST AND TELECOMMUNICATIONS
pp80-1 Wi-fi and internet access
Free wi-fi is available on shinkansen services and some limited express services but not usually now on local lines.
The ‘Japan Connected-free wi-fi’ app for iOS still exists but a more recent app by the same developer, NTT Broadband Platform Inc, called ‘Japan Wi-Fi auto-connect’ (https://apps.apple.com/us/app/japan-wi-fi-auto-connect/id1461015351) has been developed and provides automatic connection. For further information about the differences see https://www.ntt-bp.net/jw-auto/en/faq/detail/p08.html.
p85 MUSEUMS AND TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
Some places now have higher entry charges for tourists – the admission cost could be up to double the local charge.
pp85-7 ONSEN (HOT SPRINGS) AND SENTO (PUBLIC BATHS)
p85 A useful website for information about onsen in Japan (though focusing on tourist areas) is https://onsen.nifty.com/la-en/.
PART 3: THE RAIL NETWORK
Railway history
pp89-91 ARRIVAL OF THE BULLET TRAIN
p91 Future expansion and technology The shinkansen line extension to Sapporo is now not likely to be completed till 2039.
The (new) E8 has been operating on the Yamagata shinkansen line since spring 2024 and has replaced the E3.
The Tokyo to Nagoya maglev has been delayed and is unlikely to be operational till after 2027.
p92 Steam locomotive (SL) operations Kyushu The SL Hitoyoshi stopped operating in March 2024.
The railway today
pp93-4 JAPAN RAIL GROUP (JR)
p94 Japan by rail on the web A useful website about the various railway lines in Japan is https://railwaysofjapan.net.
pp95-8 THE TRAINS
p96 LUGGAGE boxed text
As stated in the book if you have large-sized luggage you need to make a reservation for it and there is a charge. However, even if your luggage is small enough that you don’t need to do this JR Tokai, JR West and JR Kyushu still require you to reserve seats at the back of the carriage ie closest to the storage area, if you want to store your luggage there. However, this is free.
p98 TIMETABLES
Hyperdia is no longer the best place for online information; it is now best to look at Japan Travel by Navitime; see box p94 in Japan by Rail.
pp98-9 BUYING A TICKET
Rail companies such as Kintetsu, Hankyu and Hanshin have introduced contactless payment with debit/credit cards or through smartphones. Cards accepted are Visa and JCB but others are also likely to be valid.
p99 Sample single fares from Tokyo boxed text
Since both fares and seat reservation fees are increasing and most of the JR companies have peak season fares (for holiday periods such as Golden Week, Obon and New Year) the costs quoted here are likely to be out of date and should be seen as a minimum fare.
pp99-100 MAKING SEAT RESERVATIONS
p99 Even if you aren’t travelling in peak periods it is particularly worth making a seat reservation for journeys on the JR West and JR Kyushu shinkansen (Sakura) as reserved seat cars have 2 x 2 seating whereas in non-reserved cars the seating is 2 x 3.
If you have luggage that is too bulky or heavy to put in the overhead storage (though not large enough for a specific seat reservation, see Luggage box p96) you should reserve seats next to the luggage area in each car as officially only people with seat reservations directly in front of this area can use it for their luggage.
Since spring 2024 the Hokuto LEX (Hakodate to Sapporo), Suzuran (Muroran/Noboribetsu to Sapporo), Ozora (Sapporo to Kushiro) and Tokachi (Sapporo to Obihiro) Limited express services are all reserved seats only so it is essential to book in advance.
Nozomi shinkansen no longer have non-reserved seats during peak periods (Golden Week (25 April to 5 June), Obon (8-17 August) and the New Year so, in other words, it is essential to make a seat reservation then.
If you use a machine to make a seat reservation you will need to input your passport number so it is useful to write it out on a piece of paper and keep that with your rail pass, so that you don’t have to keep on getting out your passport. Note that, if you need to change/cancel a seat reservation you need to queue at a Midori no Madoguchi office or find an official to do it on the ticket machines as this can’t (yet) be done any other way. And unfortunately it is necessary to do this before making a reservation for an equivalent route. It is important to allow time for this as sometimes there are long queues.
It is now possible to make online seat reservations for Tokaido, Sanyo and Kyushu shinkansen services up to a year in advance.
Lots of LEX trains are becoming reserved seat only so check in advance.
pp101-2 STATION FACILITIES
p101 Luggage storage Expect to find costs have risen. At Nagoya station it now costs ¥1100 per bag for storage up to 5pm.
PART 4: TOKYO AND OSAKA
Tokyo
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
p108 Aomi For details of teamLab Borderless see p118 Roppongi boxed text.
p109 Shijo-mae Senkyaku Banrai 豊洲 千客万来 (www.toyosu-senkyakubanrai.jp) opened in February 2024. It offers shopping, cafés and restaurants as well as a spa. There are two rooftop footbaths, one free (on the 8th floor; daily 10am-8pm) and another for anyone who buys a ticket for the Tokyo Toyosu Manyo Club 東京豊洲 万葉倶楽部 (tokyo-toyosu.manyo.co.jp; daily 24hrs; ¥3850) hot spring. You can stay the night in the relaxation room here – sleeping on a reclining chair – but you will need to pay an extra ¥3000 after 3am; check-out time is 9am. The bathhouse section is spread over nine floors. The water comes from Hakone-Yugawara hot springs and is brought in every day.
The Edo-era streets are spread over four floors and lined with shops and restaurants (shops 10am-6pm, restaurants to 10pm) but not all are open every day.
Senkyaku Banrai is connected to the 2nd floor pedestrian deck at Shijo-mae station and is then a 4-minute walk.
p109 Shin-Toyosu teamLab Planets チームラボプラネッツ ( www.teamlab.art/e/planets/; daily 8/8.30am-10pm but check in advance as sometimes closes when exhibitions change) was scheduled to close in 2023 but has been so popular it will now close at the end of 2027 and in fact a new area opened in January 2025. The entry price is now from ¥3600.
Note that you have to walk round barefoot (there are free lockers to store your shoes/socks and other belongings) and at times will be in (warm) water that is knee deep. The mirror floors in places mean that women are recommended to wear trousers – though shorts can be rented for free.
teamLab Planets is right by Shin-Toyosu station – it is hard to miss – though is a 10-minute walk from Toyosu station (Yurakucho Line) and about five minutes from Shijo-mae station.
p109 Takanawa Gateway In March 2025 a huge new development opened here. Called Takanawa Gateway City ( www.takanawagateway-city.com/en/) there are shops, restaurants, a hotel (JW Marriott Hotel Tokyo; marriott.com) and a convention centre. The MoN Takanawa: Museum of Narratives ( montakanawa.jp; generally daily 10am-9pm but check website as closed on second Tuesday of some months) opened in March 2026 as a cultural centre with a variety of events structured around themes which will change twice a year; the costs vary depending on the event/exhibition so check the website for details. It has an exhibition space, a theatre, a tatami space, a library, terraces with footbaths and of course places to eat and drink.
The development is on land where the first railway was built and more recently a train depot for some of JR East’s trains. A 150m-section of the remains of the embankment (called Takanawa Chikutei) will be able to be seen from the Park Terrace in Takanawa Gateway City.
pp112-13 Shinjuku
• South Exit area Tokyo Night & Light ( tokyoprojectionmappingproject.jp/en/; 15 mins every half hour 7.30-9.30pm) is a nightly light projection show (weather permitting) on Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building No 1. It is said to be the largest in the world; see the website for the themes and more details.
p118 ROPPONGI IN THE 21ST CENTURY boxed text
The Toranomon-Azabudai Project (www.mori.co.jp/en/projects/toranomon_azabudai/) opened in this area (between Roppongi and Tokyo Tower) in 2023. Generally called Azabudai Hills麻布台ヒルズ, the centre is a 6000sq metre plaza with three interconnected skyscrapers around it.
It is home to the Azabudai Hills Mori JP Tower 麻布台ヒルズ 森JP タワー and is called Azabudai Hills to distinguish it from the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower; at the time of writing. at 330m-high, it is Japan’s tallest building. There are 65 floors but the highest non-residents can go are the 33rd and 34th floors (Hills House): on the 33rd floor there is Dining 33 (dining33-hillshouse.jp; daily 11am-2pm & 6-10pm; set menu from ¥6600) and Dining 33 Patisserie (dining33-hillshouse.jp/patisserie; daily 11am-8pm; cakes from ¥900). Sky Room Café and Bar (daily 8am-11pm) is on the 34th floor; you can see the view from here as long as you pay the ¥500 cover charge and buy at least one drink (from ¥600). However, the view is limited and some of it is only for office workers but the highlight is Tokyo Tower.
The other main reason to go here is to visit teamLab Borderless チームラボボーダレス (also referred to as Mori Building Digital Art Museum; www.teamlab.art/e/borderless_azabudai/; generally open daily 9am-9pm, though is closed on some days so check in advance; from ¥3600) which now has a permanent base there.
Azabudai Hills can be reached from Tokyo Metro Roppongi-itchome (Namboku Line) station at one end and Kamiyacho (Hibiya Line) at the other. For teamLab Borderless take Exit 5 from Kamiyacho station and it is then a well-signed 2- to 3-minute walk.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
p133 Where to stay: Shinagawa Shinagawa Goos, the building which housed Keikyu EX-INN Shinagawa-ekimae hotel, has been torn down as part of the development work for the Chuo maglev shinkansen. However, the redeveloped site will accommodate another hotel.
p135 Where to stay: Haneda Airport Haneda Airport Garden 羽田エアポートガーデン (www.hvf.jp/haneda-lp/eng/index2.html) opened in 2023. It is connected to Terminal 3 via a passageway on the 2nd floor, which is where the stations and arrivals hall are.
In addition to the many restaurants and shops there is a hotel (Hotel Villa Fontaine) with two branches: Villa Fontaine Grand ヴィラフォンテーヌ グランド(www.hvf.jp/eng/hanedaairport-grand) and the more luxurious Villa Fontaine Premier ヴィラフォンテーヌ プレミア (www.hvf.jp/eng/hanedaairport-premier/). For a superior room at Villa Fontaine Grand expect to pay around ¥30,000/D for room only or from ¥38,000 inc breakfast and access to the spa (see below), though if you don’t care what room type you have the rates are lower: from ¥24,760/35,320. Rates at the Premier branch are of course higher.
Izumi Tenku no Yu 泉天空の湯 (www.shopping-sumitomo-rd.com/eng/haneda/spa-izumi/; onsen daily 12.30pm-10am, though the spa area is open 24 hours a day; ¥4800 or ¥2500 for hotel guests unless included in the room rate), a hot spring/spa, is on the 12th floor. There are various types of bath with different temperatures both inside and out and areas where you can sit and relax. If the weather is co-operative there can be lovely views from the spa: for women towards Mt Fuji and for men towards Tokyo.
Osaka
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
p149 Umeda
The second phase of the Umekita Development Project has been named Grand Green Osaka グラングリーン大阪 (umekita.com); the first phase, called Grand Front Osaka, opened in 2013. The southern part of Grand Green Osaka opened in 2025 and has two luxury hotels, shops, restaurants, residential accommodation and office space as well as parkland (Umekita Park); the rest of the site won’t be finished till 2027. Underneath this area is a new JR railway station (see Getting to and from Kansai Airport below).
PART 5 HONSHU
Central Honshu – route guides
TOKYO TO NAGOYA BY SHINKANSEN
Side trip to Hakone
p170 Souzan to Togendai A circular glass-bottomed viewing deck opened at Owakudani in 2025. The aim is to provide an immersive experience of the environment; for example the deck has a perforated floor so the wind blows up through the holes. A separate viewing area provides places where you can have a snack while admiring the view. These are part of a new attraction called Chikyu no Tani ちきゅうの谷 (Earth Valley).
p175 CLIMBING MT FUJI boxed text
The charge to climb Mt Fuji now starts from ¥4000 per person; it can be paid by credit card and since 2025 has applied to all the routes. Climbers now have to register their details from April of the year they will do the climb and make reservations online first; the cost for space in a mountain hut is additional to the climbing fee. See the main website for details of how to book (a bed in a hut) for the route you plan to take.
pp177-8 Side trip to Oigawa Steam Railway
The line between Ieyama and Senzu was damaged by a typhoon in 2022 so services are now operating from Kanaya/Shin-Kanaya to Kawane Onsen Sasamado (two stops beyond Ieyama); the fare is ¥920/830. The steam or electric express supplement is now ¥1500 but due to maintenance the steam express doesn’t run all year so check in advance. The total return fare for a ‘Thomas’ run is ¥6000 (¥3000 one-way). The only pass now is a 1-day pass: ¥4800 on steam days and ¥2400 on other days.
There is a community bus from Ieyama to Senzu (¥1340 return) from where the Ikawa/Igawa Line is still operating. In fact since July 2026 it has a scenic tourist train service (daitetsu.jp/archives/engpost/discover-the-ikawa-line-scenic-tourist-trains-from-1-july-2026; flat fare ¥3500; 2-5/day). Reservations (with a guaranteed seat) are recommended but same day bookings may be possible.
KANAZAWA TO KYOTO & OSAKA, OR NAGOYA – NEW ROUTE VIA SHINKANSEN & LIMITED EXPRESS
p197 Komatsu 小松 (27km) On the platform (if arriving from Kanazawa) it is hard not see a Komatsu dump truck and excavator down below – these are part of Komatsu no Mori (komatsunomori.jp; daily 9am-5pm, Kids Pavilion and Future Hall Tue-Sat 9am-4.30pm but also closed on the fifth Saturday of a month), a science museum where children can ‘play’ with Komatsu equipment. The dump truck and hydraulic excavator that can be seen from the station platform can be climbed onto (Apr-Nov 10-11am & 3-4pm, Dec-Mar 10-10.30am & 3-3.30pm subject to the weather). Take the East Exit from the station.
There is a tourist information office (daily 10am-6pm) in the station as well as a branch of 7Eleven and a soba bar.
The town is unusual in that it has a kabuki theatre for children which can be seen at Hikiyama Gallery Miyossa 曳山交流館みよっさ (Apr-Nov daily 10am-5pm, rest of year Thur-Tue; free), a 5-minute walk from the station’s west gate. For over 240 years children’s kabuki has been performed at Otabi Festival in May. Since the war, unusually, it has been mostly girls aged 9-12 who perform the kabuki and they are on floats that are paraded between Ubashi and Motoori Hiyoshi shrines. The gallery also houses two of the floats. To the right of the station is Ishikawa Komatsu Urara Theater where kabuki is also performed.
Accommodation options, on the West Exit side of the station, include: Hotel Grabinaro Komatsu ホテルグランビナリオ小松 (hotelgranbinario.com/en/concept/),Hotel Airport Komatsu ホテルエアポート小松 (www .airportkomatsu.com), which despite the name is near the station not at the airport, and Hyper Hotel Komatsu ハイパーホテル小松 (hyper-komatsu.co.jp).
p197 Kaga-onsen 加賀温泉 (42km) This is the access station for three onsen towns – Yamashiro-onsen 山代温泉 (en.yamashiro-spa.or.jp), Yamanako-onsen and Katayamazu-onsen – and also for the Kutaniyaki Kiln and Art museums. Kutaniyaki is colourful (red, yellow, green, purple and Prussian blue) Japanese porcelain and it has been made for over 360 years.
There is a tourist information centre (visitkaga.jp; daily 8.45am-5.30pm) in the station by the South Exit and a Tourist and Traditional Crafts information centre(daily 8.30am-8pm) in Century Plaza to the left of the station but connected to it. The bus stops are in front of the station exit and to the left there is Abio City Kaga shopping centre.
The main reason to visit Yamashiro-onsen is to see and have a bath in the reconstructed Meiji-era sento (communal bath) called Ko-soyu 古総湯 (daily Mar-Nov 6am-10pm, Dec-Feb 7am-9pm except morning of fourth Wednesday of each month; ¥700, small towel ¥220); get a ticket from the vending machine. It is lined with Kutani kiln tiles (and was the first communal bath in Japan to be lined with tiles); the (single-sex) ‘bath’ rooms have stained glass and wonderful mahogany wood. There are no shower facilities – you just get undressed and leave your clothes in a basket in the room. After your bath go upstairs to the refreshment area where you can relax with some cold water and look down on the street below. If you would like to visit the nearby Soyu 総湯 (opening times same; ¥460), a modern communal bath, as well you will need to pay ¥900.
It is also interesting to walk around the town as there are still many old buildings here. It is thought that Yamashiro-onsen is where the Japanese syllabary table was created in the late Heian era by the first head priest of Osenji (Osen Temple). Yakuoin Onsenji 薬王院温泉寺 is a short walk from Koso-yu and on the moss-covered path you can see the various hiragana in the Japanese alphabet.
To get to Yamashiro-onsen take a bus (daily 1-2/hr; 12 mins; ¥260) from stand No 2 outside Kaga-onsen station.
Another option for getting around the area is Kaga Canbus (kaga-canbus.jp/english.php; ¥500 for single ticket, ¥1300/1800 1-/2-day pass) which offers three routes: the mountain route (6/day) goes to Yamashiro and Yamanaka onsens, Kutaniyaki Kiln Museum (visitkaga.jp/kutani-kamaato; Wed-Sun 9am-5pm; ¥350) as well as the Motorcar Museum of Japan (www.motorcar-museum.jp; Thur-Tue 9am-5pm; ¥1200) which has over 500 cars; the sea route (6/day) includes Kutaniyaki Art Museum (www.kutani-mus.jp/en/; Tue-Sun 9am-5pm; ¥560) and the Komatsu Airport Line (3/day), which includes Katayamazu-onsen. Buses depart from the Canbus stop in front of Abio City Kaga shopping centre. See the Kaga-Canbus website for more details including about the Onsen-kyo blue passport (¥1800) which includes a Canbus ticket and entry to three facilities. The red passport (¥1000) only includes the entrance fee for three facilities.
p197 Awara-onsen 芦原温泉 (58km) The main reason to visit Awara-onsen is to stay at a ryokan/visit an onsen and eat Echizen crab (main season early November to mid March). However, you can also reach Tojin-bo 東尋坊 (Tojin Cliffs), cliffs which are approximately 30m-high and stretch along the coast for about a kilometre. For a bus to the cliffs (1-2/hr; 27 mins) and/or to the onsen area take the West Exit.
There is a tourist information centre (daily 8.30am-5pm), as well as a coffee shop and Aflare Hall on the ground/1st floor of the station. On the 2nd floor Fukui Museum and the play area (both free) are great places for children.
p197 Fukui 福井 (76km) (additional text) You can’t escape the fact that Fukui prefecture is the place in Japan known for dinosaurs; all around the station (both inside and out) there are dinosaur models and also animatronic dinosaurs so if you don’t have time to go to the actual museum (see below) you can still learn a lot about dinosaurs.
Take the East Exit for the Echizen Railway (www.echizen-tetudo.co.jp) and the West Exit for Fukui Railway, a light railway/tram line. Hapi Line Fukui also stops here. Fukui City Tourist information office (daily 8.30am-5pm) is in a building outside the West Exit.
Accommodation options around the West Exit of the station include: Dormy Inn Premium Fukui ドーミーインPREMIUM福井 (dormy-hotels.com/en/dormyinn/hotels/fukui/): Fukui Manten Hotel Ekimae 福井マンテンホテル駅前 (www.manten-hotel.com/fukui/), Hotel Route Inn Fukui Ekimae ホテルルートイン福井駅前 (www.route-inn.co.jp) and Toyoko Inn Fukui Ekimae 東横INN福井駅前 (www.toyoko-inn.com).
Side trip to Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum (Katsuyama)
(New text) Exhibitions at Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum 福井県立恐竜博物館 (www.dinosaur.pref.fukui.jp/en; daily 9am-5pm except second and fourth Wed; summer school holidays daily 8.30am-6pm; ¥1000) include Earth Sciences, Dinosaur World and History of the Earth with about 50 skeletons. There is also a Field station – where many fossils have been found – 30 minutes by bus from the museum. To reach the museum take an Echizen Railway Eiheiji Katsuyama line train (1-3/hr; 53 mins; ¥820) from Fukui to Katsuyama 勝山and then Katsuyama Gururin community bus (6-7/day; ¥350). Echizen Railway operates Dino Liner (Mar-Sep weekends & hols 1/day each way; ¥4900), a 2-car dinosaur train. Seat reservations are essential and tickets include the museum’s admission fee as well as the bus to/from the station. JR West operates a ‘WowRide’ XR bus tour (Apr-Sep 3-6/day; 60 mins; ¥3300 inc museum ticket) direct to the museum from Fukui station.
pp198-9 Fukui to Tsuruga
Echizen-Takefu 越前たけふ (95km) The Echizen-Takefu area is known for both soba- and knife-making/kitchen-ware. For more information on these crafts see visit-echizen-tourism.jp and www.town-echizen.jp for general information.
You can go to Echizen Soba no Sato 越前そばの里 (Sato Village; www.echizensoba.co.jp; daily 9.30am-4pm; free) just for a meal (restaurant 10.30am-3pm) but if you book in advance through the website you can also make soba (at 10am or 12.30pm; 90 mins; ¥2200). There is also a small museum area about making soba. Takefu Knife Village タケフナイフビレッジ (en.takefu-knifevillage.jp; daily 9am-5pm; free), a co-operative of knife-makers, is the place to go if you are interested in knife-making.
There are no bus services to the soba or knife villages but as long as you have a mobile/cell phone and call plan you can buy a taxi ticket at the tourist information centre (daily 8am-6pm) at Echizen-Takefu station and they will book a taxi for you. This is a very good deal as the taxi ticket (Geisha de GO) costs ¥500 one-way but, for example, the journey from the station to the soba village would normally cost ¥1020 one-way. They will give you the phone number so you can book a taxi for your return journey when you are ready.
There is a 19.8km-long tunnel on the approach to Tsuruga; this also applies if travelling on Hapi Line Fukui.
p199 Tsuruga 敦賀 (125km) (additional text) Tsuruga (tsuruga-kanko.jp, or sustainable-tsuruga.jp/en/spot/) is a port town and it developed in part because it provided a good connection from the Sea of Japan to Kyoto. In the Meiji and Showa eras it had an important role as the place where Polish orphans (1920s) and later Jewish refugees (1940s) arrived from Russia (Vladivostok). Before air travel it was also the quickest way from Japan to Europe as you could take a boat to Vladivostok and then pick up a Trans-Siberian Railway train. It is also notable in terms of rail history as it was the first town on the Sea of Japan coast to build a railway, and the first railway to be fully electrified. Also at one time the Hokuriku Tunnel was the longest in Japan and fifth longest in the world.
Pick up a map from the tourist information centre (daily 8am-8pm) in the station. Even though it is not an exciting walk it takes about half an hour from the station to the port area and the main sights but if you prefer Gurutto Tsuruga Shuyu bus (8-10/day; ¥200, 1-day pass ¥500) departs from bus stop 3 on the west exit side of the station and operates on a loop route to the main sights. The sights include the approximately 1.5km long pine tree park (designated a site of national scenic beauty) at Kehi-no-Matsubara 気比の松原 beach by Tsuruga Bay.
If walking from the station the first place you should head for is Kehi Jingu shrine 氣比神宮 – the shrine is notable as having one of the biggest wooden torii gates (11m-high) in Japan. From there rail fans should head to Tsuruga Railroad Museum 敦賀鉄道資料館 (generally Tue-Sun 9am-5pm; free); it is housed in the former port station building. There are some interesting exhibits but most labels are in Japanese. The Port of Humanity Tsuruga Museum 人道の港 敦賀ムゼウム (tsuruga-museum.jp/en/; Thur-Tue 9am-5pm; ¥500) is where you can learn about how Japan welcomed the Polish orphans and Jewish refugees and for the most part there are lots of labels in English so it is well worth visiting.
Tsuruga Manten Hotel Ekimae 敦賀マンテンホテル駅前 (www.manten-hotel.com/tsuruga/; from ¥16,200/D inc breakfast) is to the right of the main station exit. The rooms are rather dated but are perfectly comfortable and the hotel has a common bath. Breakfast is either Japanese or Western.
There aren’t many places to eat at near the station – the best option is Polt Square Otta to the left of the station exit. This also has shops including a very stylish bookshop called Chienamiki (chienamiki.jp; daily 10am-8pm).
Moving on from Tsuruga: to Kyoto, Shin-Osaka/Osaka or Nagoya
p199 At Tsuruga if transferring direct from a shinkansen to a limited express service to Kyoto, Osaka or Nagoya expect a long walk, especially if you were sitting at the back of the shinkansen. The shinkansen services connect well with the limited express services from Tsuruga to Kyoto/Shin-Osaka/Osaka and to Nagoya.
There are also about 10 rapid services a day to Himeji via Kyoto, Shin-Osaka, Osaka and Kobe/Sannomiya.
Kansai – route guides
NAGOYA TO OSAKA (SHIN-OSAKA) VIA THE KII PENINSULA
pp244-5 Shirahama The local buses accept QR code payment, such as Alipay and aupay, but not IC cards such as SUICA or Pasmo.
ToreTore Ichiba とれとれ市 (toretore.com/ichiba/; daily 8.30am-6.30pm; free) is a stop on the bus route between Shirahama station and Shirahama onsen. It is primarily a fish market and is well worth a visit particularly to see a tuna being cut up; a very impressive process.
The adult pandas at Adventure World were returned to China in 2025.
Coral Princess Underwater Observation Tower コーラルプリンセス展望塔 (daily 9am-4.30pm; ¥800, ¥700 for hotel guests) provides a chance to see the fascinationg underwater world without snorkelling or diving. It can be reached through Hotel Seamore: Key Terrace Hotel Seamore (www.keyterrace.co.jp/en/; from ¥16,650pp inc half board for a room with a sea view) has a wonderful location on the cliff-tops and it is worth paying extra for a room with a sea view. Breakfast is always a buffet meal but in the evening you can choose between a buffet, a sushi meal or a Japanese kaiseki-style meal.
Whether or not you are staying at the hotel it is worth visiting Tetti Bakery café (daily 7am-6.30pm; eat in or takeaway) as they have some delicious products – the escargot (snail) garlic butter baguette is particularly recommended. Get there early as they often sell out quickly!
Kansai – city guides
KYOTO
p249 The massive number of visitors to Kyoto now means the authorities have developed a code of conduct for tourists. The main things are: to throw your rubbish away at your hotel (or in a proper bin at a station); not to leave food lying around; and not to take photos where not permitted. See www.moral.kyokanko.or.jp/en/for-tourist for more information.
p265 Side trip by rail to Amanohashidate
(New text) Amanohashidate is not in the current (5th) edition of Japan by Rail but if seeing the third place deemed one of the three ‘top scenic sights in Japan’ – the other two are Miyajima (pp309-11) and Matsushima (pp330-2) – appeals it is easy to do a day trip from Kyoto, or Osaka.
Amanohashidate 天橋立 The kanji for ‘Ama’ means ‘heaven’ and ‘hashi’ bridge so it can be interpreted to mean ‘bridge to heaven’; according to legend the ‘bridge’ was created when a god knocked down the ladder to heaven.
The main feature here is the pine-/tree-covered sandbank linking (with the benefit of a small bridge) two sides of a bay. If you walk over the sandbank and take the chair lift or funicular (www.tankai.jp/en/observatory/amanohashidate-kasamatsu-park/; ¥800 return trip) up to Kasamatsu Park 傘松公園 in good weather particularly the view is spectacular. If time is limited from behind Amanohashidate station you can take the chairlift (6 mins) or monorail (8 mins) up Mt Monju to the observatory at Amanohashidate View Land 天橋立ビューランド (www.viewland.jp/en/eigyou/). The round trip for either costs ¥1000; the service days and hours vary so check on the relevant website.
Two options for accommodation are: Hotel Amanohashidate ホテル天橋立 (www.amanohashidate-htl.co.jp/lg_en/; from ¥20,691/S, ¥23,900/D or Tw inc breakfast), which is across the road from the station and offers views of the sandbank or, if your budget doesn’t stretch to staying there, consider Auberge Amanohashidate オーベルジュ天橋立(www.amanohashidate-htl.co.jp/auberge/lg_en/; from ¥7000/S, ¥10,215/D or Tw inc breakfast). The sea is visible from a few of the rooms here. The rooms are very compact but the bonus is that you can use the onsen at Hotel Amanohashidate and eat breakfast there and it is a very good buffet breakfast. Auberge Amanohashidate has a restaurant which serves a limited selection of Western-style dishes (options in the evening may include seafood gratin ¥2300 or steak ¥3300). The dining room looks over the Asokai Sea so it is a lovely place for a meal but it is best to eat early if you want a window table.
JR West’s Hashidate LEX operates between Kyoto and Amanohashidate (4/day; about 2hrs 10 mins). From Osaka take the Kounotori LEX (1/hr) to Fukuchiyama and then transfer to the Hashidate LEX (approx 2hrs 20 mins in all). Both routes are free with a Japan Rail Pass other than the stretch from Fukuchiyama to Amanohashidate which is a private line (Kyoto Tango Railway); the fare for that is ¥1750/2700 one-way in a non-reserved/reserved seat. However, the whole journey (from either Kyoto or Osaka) is included in JR West’s All Area, Kansai Wide Area, Kansai Hiroshima Area, Sanyo Sanin Area, Kansai Hokuriku Area and Kansai Sanin Area passes.
Western Honshu – route guides
SHIN-OSAKA (OSAKA) TO SHIN-YAMAGUCHI BY SHINKANSEN
Fukuyama
pp277-8 Side trip by bicycle to Shikoku
p278 Onomichi station now has a hotel and restaurant. Hotel Beacon Onomichi ホテルビーコンおのみち (www.beacon-onomichi.com/en/; from ¥18,700pp inc breakfast) has 16 rooms and some of them have kitchenettes. There is also a common bath and Café Restaurant Bar Gen (daily 7.30-10.30am, 11.30am-2pm & 5.30-9pm). JR West operates a bike rental store on the 1st floor. The station also has a convenience store.
Toll-free cycling for tourists has been scheduled to stop for a while but at the time of writing still seems to be continuing. If it has stopped when you get there it is likely the tolls will cost about ¥500.
PART 6: HOKKAIDO
Hokkaido – route guides
pp363-88 JR Hokkaido has instituted an alphabetical system for locating where you should stand to catch your train if you have a seat reservation. Your seat reservation ticket will say your car number but now, at virtually all stations in Hokkaido, the number you would usually look for on the platform or on a sign above your head will be an alphabet letter for a plant or animal. They are always the same: eg B is for bear, C is for cow, D for deer, E for eagle, O for owl, P for potato, Q for quince, T for thistle. So, on the electronic sign look for your car number and then find what ‘letter’ you should go and stand at.
HAKODATE/SHIN-HAKODATE-HOKUTO TO SAPPORO
Alternative route to Sapporo via Otaru
p368 Yoichi Nikka Whisky Yoichi distillery It is essential to book a guided tour in advance but these are only in Japanese so may be of less interest if you don’t speak Japanese. However, you do get to try three whiskies and the advantage of joining a tour is that you can go in the main entrance which is close to the station. If you don’t book a tour you will have to walk round to the back of the site (pick up a map at the station or from someone at the main entrance) for the shop, museum and restaurant; this takes 10-15 minutes. The museum is interesting, everything is in English and you can pay to taste different whiskies.
pp368-9 Otaru Otaru International Tourist Center (daily 9am-8pm) has opened at the port’s Third Pier and this replaces the TIC on Sakura Bridge near Otaru Canal. There are currency exchange machines, coin lockers as well as an observation deck on the 2nd floor.
p370 Otaru to Sapporo If you have a Japan Rail Pass – or JR Hokkaido pass – you can reserve seats on the rapid train between Otaru and Minami-Chitose Airport via Sapporo (or vice-versa); this is worth doing especially if you have luggage.
pp372-3 Shiraoi If coming from the Hakodate direction the station exit is the right-hand side for Upopoy but if coming from Sapporo you will need to cross over using what is called the ‘free passage’. It is then a 300-metre walk to Shiraoi Station North TIC Poroto Mintar (shiraoi.net/en/porotomintar/; daily Apr-Oct 9am-6pm, Nov-Mar to 5pm), which has information about everything in the area, and then a further 300-400m to Upopoy itself. You also pass a SL train – SL D51 333.
Before you go to Upopoy it is worth looking at the event schedule (ainu-upopoy.jp/en/timetable/) on their website so that you can plan your day as not all workshops or performances happen throughout the day. It is also worth booking the performing arts event as soon as you get to the museum as that can get full. And do allow time to see the actual museum as there is a lot to see there and everything is well labelled in English.
SAPPORO TO ASAHIKAWA & ABASHIRI
p374 Side trip to Sounkyo-onsen
The Dohoku Bus (www.dohokubus.com) service from Kamikawa starts from Asahikawa (bus stop 8; 7/day) and the journey costs ¥2140 though if you have a relevant JR Pass it would be cheaper to go to Kamikawa.
KUSHIRO TO SAPPORO (OR ASAHIKAWA)
OBIHIRO
p384 BAN’EI RACING – WITH DRAFT HORSES boxed text
The stadium is about a 30- to 45-minute walk from Obihiro station so it is best to take a bus – take either the No 2, 17, 31 or 72 from bus stand No 12 to Obihiro Keibajou mae. Overall there are 2-5 buses an hour and all the buses go to the station but otherwise the routes vary. It is worth going even if not a Saturday to Monday as you may see horses practising and there is a museum (daily 10am-4pm; free) where, even though most labels are in Japanese, there is a video of actual horse races so you can really understand the event.
Hokkaido – city guides
HAKODATE
pp393-4 Where to eat and drink Jazz Spot Leaf (Tue-Sat 11.30am-10pm, bar from 7pm) has moved and is now on the small road between the two roads shown on the map and on the opposite side of the road from the hotel called Unizo Inn Express; look for a sign on the road saying ‘Jazz’. Note that they don’t accept requests and sometimes they have live music. A lunch set costs from ¥800, cakes from ¥450, and pizza costs ¥1200.
ASAHIKAWA
p401 What to see and do
At the station there is an Ainu Culture Information Center (Tue-Sun 10.30am-6.30pm; free) but the best place to go to learn about the Ainu in this area is Asahikawa City Museum 旭川市博物館 (daily 9am-5pm but closed 2nd and 4th Mon Oct-May; ¥350). The museum focuses on Ainu culture and the history of northern peoples in the area and the exhibits are well labelled. It is a short walk from the west side of Asahikawa station’s South Exit – walk over Crystal Bridge and then go into Asahikawa Taisetsu Crystal Hall and walk through to the museum.
PART 7 – KYUSHU
Kyushu – Route guides
SHIN-YAMAGUCHI TO HAKATA (FUKUOKA) BY SHINKANSEN
pp409-10 Side trip by rail to Mojiko – and a walk back to Honshu
p410 If staying in Mojiko when returning from Shimonoseki (after walking in the Kanmon Tunnel) you can get off the train at Moji (instead of going all the way to Kokura and then transferring). You can also return to Mojiko via the passenger ferry (kanmon.gr.jp/kanmon2020/en/detail/74.html; 2-3/hr; 5 mins; ¥400 one-way) that operates between Shimonoseki and Mojiko.
HAKATA TO NAGASAKI – NEW ROUTE BY LIMITED EXPRESS & SHINKANSEN
p411 If on a Huis Ten Bosch LEX some services will stop at Yoshinogarikoen 吉野ヶ里公園 before Saga.
pp411-2 Saga In November when the Saga International Balloon Fiesta is being held a station called Balloon Saga バルーンさが is open and most trains stop there.
p412 If on a Relay Kamome, Huis Ten Bosch LEX or Midori LEX some services stop at Kohoku 江北 after Saga station.
Kyushu – city guides
FUKUOKA
p433 FUKUOKA – A SHOPPING PARADISE FOR SOME boxed text
To reach Lalaport from Takeshita station (JR Kagoshima Line) take the East Gate exit and then follow the main road in the direction you were coming from Hakata. Lalaport is on the left-hand side of the road and is about a 10-minute walk from the station. Once at Lalaport, for the Gundam statue you need to walk through the shopping centre on the ground level to reach ‘Forest Park’.
p437 Side trip by rail to Dazaifu
Tenmangu Shrine will celebrate its 1125th anniversary in 2027 and because of this, for the first time in well over 100 years, the main hall is being renovated and work should be completed in 2026. In the intervening period a temporary hall has been set up for people to worship in.
KAGOSHIMA
Side trips from Kagoshima
pp459 By rail to Ibusuki Rail fans may like to continue on the JR Ibusuki Makurazaki railway line to Makurazaki 枕崎枕崎枕崎 (5/day; 122 mins) as it is the southernmost terminal station on the southernmost line in Japan; however, the honour of being the southernmost station in Japan goes to Nishi-oyama 西大山 (22 mins) which is a stop en route.
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