Trailblazer Guide Books

Worth watching out for.
 — John Cleare

GENERAL

The improvements to the Highway (see p56) have produced a modern road which should not deter even anxious drivers. On the other hand, you should not expect to find anything even remotely resembling a motorway, autostrada, autobahn or equivalent. The only exceptions are stretches near to major towns in south and central Norway. Widths have been increased but there are still some stretches, especially in Finnmark and where the Highway runs along fjord edges, where the road is not wide enough for easy passing. In places the standard 6m may be reduced to 4.5m or less. Radii of curvature have also been increased but there will be blind corners – again chiefly when the road hugs the shore of a fjord. Gradients are moderate rather than severe but, if towing, the mountainous sections, eg north of Narvik and on the Kv�nangsfjellet, may be troublesome.

Tarred road surfaces are usually good to very good but it must be remembered that the winter conditions and spring thaw can cause severe damage. Long sections may therefore be under repair or reconstruction during the summer – the only season when the work can be done. Coming across such sections, you should slow down to a crawl and not attempt to drive at speed across what may be simply a surface of high calibre rubble. Patience is never more of a virtue than when meeting a 2�3km stretch of road under repair.

On 16 June 1992, 25% of Norway's public roads changed their numbers. If using an old map printed before the changes, beware. Now all trunk roads (including the E6/Arctic Highway) are marked with white numbers on a green background.

THE VEHICLE

An early decision will be whether to take your own vehicle or to hire. The days when four-wheel drive was necessary are past unless it is anticipated that off-road driving, for example for wild camping, is likely. The road surfaces and general conditions make almost any roadworthy vehicle adequate. Daily journeys may involve substantial distances so that a small, low-powered car which may become uncomfortable has little to recommend it beyond a favourable fuel-to-distance ratio. Travelling with a trailer or caravan was, in the past, considered unwise. It is still not common but if the towing vehicle is adequately powered there should be no problem on the Highway (see section on caravans, p29). One popular vehicle for the Highway is the camper or motorized caravan. While they may find little favour with tourist authorities, or even with other drivers, there is little doubt about their utility.

In summer, no special equipment is needed beyond that which you would be carrying for any long journey. However, because of the remoteness of the area and taking into account the relatively small size of its settlements, it's prudent to carry an appropriate selection of spares and to check that your tyres are in good order.

As already mentioned, special tyres with or without studs or snow chains will be needed in winter and may be required by law between 15 October and 15 May. Chains, because they are readily available and can be removed when there is no snow, may be the preferred option. Motoring organizations hire out chains but it may be cheaper to buy then re-sell after the trip. A UK source will be found on website www.carparts-direct.co.uk where the price should be below £60.

An international identity plate should be attached to the rear of the vehicle and a red hazard-warning triangle should be carried in case of a breakdown. Both are legal requirements. Some of the ferry companies will issue free deflector strips for the headlights of right-hand drive vehicles; otherwise, some sort of deflector should be fitted on arrival in Scandinavia. If you intend to drive only in daylight these deflectors are not strictly necessary.

There are strict rules forbidding the carriage of fuel in jerry cans on the North Sea ferries.

Car hire is an alternative to taking your own transport. There may be good reasons to hire from home but there are advantages in hiring in Norway, perhaps even at the start of the journey along the Highway. In this way time can be saved by using air travel and, in the event of breakdown, help should be at hand more quickly. The obvious arguments against hire are cost and unfamiliarity with the vehicle. Hire costs are comparatively high in Norway, some would say excessively so. As a guide, assume that the basic charge for the smallest car will be around NOK500 per day with perhaps 200km free of distance charges. There is a high tax on car rentals. It is also true that if a vehicle is hired in Norway, you will have to carry all you need for your journey in bags to the pick-up point rather than simply loading it into the boot or putting it on a roof-rack.

Most of the major international and European car-hire companies operate in Norway so bookings may be best done in your home country. Alternatively, if already in Norway, look for the word bilutleie in a telephone directory. Some of the smaller companies may well offer special, more favourable rates but it would be wise to take local advice. Norway has only a small population and there is not an abundance of vehicles for hire. Booking ahead is advisable especially in the high season. Some contacts in the towns most likely to be the point of hire are given on p22.

RULES, REGULATIONS & PRACTICALITIES

The laws that are likely to affect the foreign driver are not restrictive or unusual but, it has to be said, they will be enforced rigorously. I recall a police official in Mo i Rana some years ago who, when asked what was his attitude to speeding, replied that he usually recommended a fine which would leave the driver with just enough money to leave the country.

Driving and alcohol The simple rule is: if you are driving do not drink any alcohol before, during or even after the drive. Tests can be made up to 6 hours after an incident. The alcohol limit is just 0.5ml and the penalties are more severe than in most other countries. If you purchase a medicine in Norway which may affect your driving it will be marked with a red triangle.

Rule of the road As with the rest of continental Europe, driving is to the right with overtaking on the left. Overtaking must not be across an unbroken central line; across a broken warning line it is to be carried out, if necessary, with extreme caution. Priority is given to vehicles approaching from the right but main roads have priority over minor roads.

Lights, belts and helmets Norway has followed the long established Swedish rule requiring dipped headlights at all times. Flashing headlights as a warning or as an invitation to overtake should be avoided. Use of seatbelts is compulsory, including in the back seats of a car, if they are fitted. Crash helmets are required for drivers and passengers of motorcycles and mopeds.

Road signs Most road signs conform to international standards but a few important signs may not carry a pictogram and these are given opposite. The placing of signs and their legibility are excellent.

Road numbers Norway's main roads are classified as being in one of three categories: European routes, trunk routes or national roads. European routes (such as the Arctic Highway) carry the letter E before the number. The signs for E roads and trunk roads are green with white numerals. National roads are marked by black numerals on a white background. The Arctic Highway is the E6. Roads are very well signposted so you have to try quite hard to get lost.

Many of Norway's roads were re-numbered on 16 June 1992. Initially this caused confusion but only if you are using an old map will there be a problem now. However, some general road maps were re-printed after 1992 without the changes being made so check before you start out. Look at your map, check if the road entering Mo i Rana from Sweden is marked as the E79. If it is, throw the map away and buy one on which the road is properly designated as the E12.

To simplify matters, in this book all numbered roads are given their number preceded by the word ‘Route’ unless an ‘E’ road.

Speed limits There is a confusing range of speed limits operating in Norway, from 90km/h down to 30km/h in 10km/h intervals. The highest speed allowed is restricted to motorway-standard roads and the 40km/h is an advisory speed on some sharp bends. There may be a temptation to put the foot down on the accelerator pedal when confronted by long-distance journeys and an almost traffic-free road. don't. Even along the E6 Arctic Highway the speed limit is only 80km/h and in many places will be less. In built-up areas the limit is generally 50km/h. A built-up area may simply be a couple of farms 100m from the road, so beware. In ‘residential’ areas the limit drops to 30km/h. The speed limits are usually prominently displayed but may change suddenly and unexpectedly. In one or two places the Norwegians are adopting the sign, common in Finland and Sweden, of the silhouette of a town (building outlines and a church spire) to indicate a built-up area. The same sign with a red cancellation stripe indicates the exit from a town. Speed limits for caravans and trailers without brakes are a low 60km/h.

The sign Automatisk Trafikkontrol doesn't mean traffic signals. It indicates a speed camera which, unlike in the UK, is almost certain to be operating. There's not a lot of crime in Norway so there are plenty of police for traffic duty, operating even in the most remote areas.

Other rules In towns, pedestrian have absolute right of way at marked crossings. Drivers observe this rule and driving along the Arctic Highway through a town like Narvik can mean you stop a dozen or so times. Watching Norwegian drivers, it sometimes seem that they stop in anticipation rather than waiting for a pedestrian to stand on the kerb.

There are frequent campaigns to cut the number of road accidents involving children. Motorists are warned in advance when a new school term is about to start. Norwegian children are no more or less cautious than other youngsters, but accidents to children are an especially sensitive issue in Norway.

There are lay-bys and picnic places on the borders of some roads, often well chosen beauty spots with good views. The best have tables, benches and a WC. It is important to note that it may be forbidden to use such lay-bys if it means crossing to the non-driving side of the road. As one goes further north, the frequency of stopping places diminishes markedly. In Finnmark there are very few.

On narrow sections of road there are very short sections of wider carriageway which might be mistaken for lay-bys. Marked with the letter ‘M’ (for m�teplass), these are for passing only and stopping is forbidden.

Fuel and breakdowns There is an adequate number of refuelling points along the Highway and its branches but some indication of their location will be given in Parts 4 to 9 where gaps between petrol stations are large. A fuel station can be assumed in the towns and larger villages.

There should be no need to carry spare fuel although a can for emergencies may be reassuring. (Remember, full fuel cans are not permitted on the North Sea ferries.) A sensible practice for most drivers is to refuel at the first opportunity when the tank is third to half full.

Only a few fuel stations are open for 24 hours and, on holidays and Sundays, may close by 18.00. What is more, they tend to make changes in opening times so that by the time you make the return journey some small but important alteration may have occurred. All the same, most will be open from at least 10.00 to 17.00, even in the most remote places.

Both leaded and lead-free (blyfri) petrol, as well as diesel, are available in North Norway. Petrol is usually available at 95 or 98 octane. Prices are some of the highest in Europe despite Norway's rich endowment in oil. There is a small differential in price in favour of lead-free but the low prices for diesel are long gone and the favourable differential is very small. Credit cards are usually welcome for payment; travellers’ cheques may be accepted although ask first.

Breakdowns are a nuisance wherever they occur but the remoteness of North Norway presents additional problems. It is quite possible to find a point on a road where the distance to the nearest habitation, let alone garage, is 20km or much more. That's a long walk.

If a breakdown occurs, and the problem demands help, the best plan is to flag down a passing driver and either ask if he or she will summon assistance or beg a lift to the nearest telephone. Houses and other points where a telephone is available for public use may be indicated by road signs but these are few and far between so it is wiser to try to reach a village. To call up assistance it is best to enquire of a garage or look up the word redningstjeneste in a telephone directory. Even the smallest garage in North Norway will probably be able and willing to come to a driver's assistance but charges can be high. Because of the area's remoteness there is a general acceptance that everyone comes to the aid of another in need but, like anywhere else, it should not be taken for granted that the first vehicle to be waved down will actually stop.

The main motoring organization in Norway is the Norges Automobil-forbund (NAF, tel 22 34 16 00; fax 22 42 88 30) and, as a member of Alliance Internationale de Tourisme (AIT), it is affiliated to most national motoring organizations such as the AA and RAC in Great Britain and the AAA in the USA. Members of affiliated associations will be given help by the NAF, and I have personal experience of their efficiency and kindness.

Convoy driving Winter driving may include travelling in a convoy behind a snowplough and there are a number of points to bear in mind if this should occur. You may be turned away if the number of vehicles is too great or if the snowplough driver (responsible for the convoy) deems your vehicle to be unfit for the trip – or even if the driver and passengers are inadequately clothed. Radiator grills should be covered and it is important to have a torch, tow rope and snow shovel on board. Once in the convoy, travel should be at a steady speed keeping sight of the vehicle in front and maintaining a warm air supply to the windscreen. Foglights, if fitted, should be switched on. It is forbidden to leave the convoy or to turn off and, if forced to stop, passengers and driver should not leave the vehicle.

Off-road driving Even if not camping, there will be times when, either along the Arctic Highway or one of its branches, a driver will wish to pull off the road. Along the Highway this is becoming increasingly difficult as the road is raised to prevent snow accumulations. On most of the minor roads this is not a problem. Even if driving a vehicle with four-wheel drive, the greatest caution should be exercised. Forest areas are usually safe but open ground, while appearing perfectly sound, may be little more than bog. It is foolish in the extreme to drive off the road without first inspecting the surface. Some areas are affected by sporadic permafrost and when the upper surface defreezes in summer the water is unable to drain downwards and the upper layers (the ‘active zone�) become waterlogged. If you wish to drive off the road the best plan is to make a careful inspection first by walking the path it is intended to follow. If there is any hint that the ground is unsound, do not attempt to drive on it. I always carry out this procedure using a pair of transceivers to communicate between the driver and the person inspecting the ground. If there is snow on the ground do not attempt to leave the road.

it's important to remember that the further north you travel the more fragile is the environment. It will take decades for the vegetation, and even the soil, to recover from being compacted or mangled by the wheels of a vehicle. This is especially the case where it is obvious that there is only the thinnest covering of lichens, mosses or grass. The rule must be to avoid driving over such surfaces even if they are solid enough to take the weight of the truck or car.

Off-road driving is best restricted to existing paths where it is clear that other vehicles have gone before. These include many of the old winter roads, often across the vidde, which may be marked by tall sticks or the slender trunks of stunted birch trees which have been cut for the purpose. One such route is described in Part 7 p230 as an alternative route between Alta and Kautokeino.

Caravans, campers and heavy vehicles The E6 (Arctic Highway) from Mo i Rana to Kirkenes is deemed suitable for caravans and trailers for the whole of its length and only one or two of the major branch roads are classified as difficult. Some routes up to Mo may be best avoided by cars trailing caravans but alternatives will be described in the next part. A map showing routes to be avoided by caravans is available from the Norwegian Tourist Board.

The width limit for vehicles is 2.5m and if caravans or trailers are between 2.3m and 2.5m the towing vehicle must be at least as wide as the trailer. Caravan mirrors are compulsory but they must be removed when not towing. If your vehicle or trailer is greater than 2.5m wide you must seek permission from the Directorate of Public Roads (Vegdirektoratet): Statens Vegvesen, Norwegian Administration of Public Roads, Directorate of Public Roads, Box 8142, Dep N-0033, Oslo (tel 22 07 35 00; fax 22 07 37 68; website frmapost@veg vesen.no). General information can be had on tel 22 65 40 40 but this is largely to detail winter road closures and getting anything other than recorded information in Norwegian may be difficult.

Contacting Statens Vegvesen can get you all sorts of information about road conditions and closures as well as a map showing permitted axle weights on roads. Alternatively contact a national office of the Norwegian Tourist Board (for addresses see p36). The only section of the Highway from Mo i Rana to Kirkenes where the permitted axle load is less than the national maximum (10,000kg) is across the Saltfjell north of Mo. During the spring thaw the limits may be reduced for short periods and many of the Highway's branches are unsuitable for heavy vehicles.

For those whose caravans or camper vans have built-in toilets, there are decanting facilities provided at a number of locations in northern Norway, almost all at petrol stations (bensinstasjonen, see p28).

Insurance, licences and documents Third party insurance is compulsory. A full driving licence, valid for the vehicle being driven, issued by a national authority, must be carried by the driver. If the driving licence does not include a photograph, reference will be made to the passport which should, in any case, be carried at all times. Some evidence that the vehicle is owned by a member of the party or being legitimately driven (eg on hire) should be included in the documentation. For vehicles registered in the UK, the Vehicle Registration Document (Form V5), which is issued by the DVLA at Swansea, is the obvious choice if you own the vehicle. If not, carry the document plus a note from the registered keeper detailing all who are driving with permission. The police can be very finicky about minor details.

Animals Even in the southern fylker it is quite possible that you will come across reindeer or elk on the road. While elk may be encountered singly, reindeer will usually be in small groups. If one reindeer crosses the road in front of you, you can be pretty certain others will follow. Both elk and reindeer are likely to dash out of roadside forests without warning. Caution signs are usually displayed by the roadside in southern parts of Norway but in the north, where the majority of reindeer are to be found, it's best to assume they might be anywhere. A fully grown reindeer may weigh 250kg; an elk much more. If you hit one it is not only the animal that will suffer. You should also report any fatal encounter, or instance when the animal is seriously injured, to the police.

Goats and cattle may also be found on some rural roads. Goats seem particularly fond of taking shelter in the entrances to road tunnels.

Tolls The cost of new roads, tunnels and bridges is often partly offset by making a toll charge to users for some years after the construction is finished. The charges are modest but unavoidable. To discourage vehicles entering Oslo, Bergen and Trondheim, there are charges at some entry points. In the country there are still a number of private roads on which you'll find a toll being charged for the use of the road. Often there is no toll booth but payment is made by putting the charge into an honesty box and recording your registration number. These private roads are difficult and expensive to maintain and paying the fee is the least you can do to keep these tracks open. They often lead to some of the most interesting places in the area. If you see the sign ‘Stopp, Bom’, don't be alarmed. Bom means barrier and you'll be approaching a tollgate.

it's important to have adequate small change ready at toll stations (and for ferries) or you'll incur the wrath of those behind you.

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