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New Zealand - The Great Walks

New Zealand - The Great Walks

Excerpt:
Planning your tramp


Contents list | Introduction | Planning your tramp | Using this guide | Sample route guide | Sample track description


WITH A GROUP OR ON YOUR OWN?

'That night was typical of a stop at a trail hut. Over dinner we discussed murder, race relations, AIDS, nuclear testing, the greenhouse effect, Third World economies, the Maori claim to New Zealand and Martin Luther King Day.'
Paul Theroux, The Happy Isles of Oceania

New Zealand has an outstanding network of tracks and trails that are well managed and preserved. By tramping you are able to get to some of the finest wilderness left in the country and experience a host of landscapes.

The Great Walks are some of New Zealand's premier walking tracks. Well cut, clearly defined and well maintained, they are relatively easy to follow, thus enabling people of all abilities to attempt a tramp.

For those who like hot showers and other home comforts, there is the option of taking luxury guided walks on some of the tracks. Or if you don't mind roughing it a bit independent tramping, where you carry your own pack and remain self-sufficient, is a very rewarding way of seeing New Zealand.

Independent tramping
Tramping independently is the cheapest way to explore the wilderness and offers you the greatest freedom. You can either camp, or there are huts provided along the tracks which, in some cases, you must book and pay for in advance and receive a hut pass in return.

Toilet facilities are often basic but modern flushing versions have been installed along the most popular tracks.

The Great Walks are exceptionally easy to arrange and most can be booked when you arrive in New Zealand.

The Lake Waikaremoana, Milford, Routeburn, Kepler and Abel Tasman tracks may have to be booked well in advance but again, with a little forethought and planning, this is simple to do.

On these you will be obliged to stay in your pre-booked hut on a specified date.

On other tracks, however, you are afforded a greater degree of flexibility than if you were tramping as part of an organized group and are able to make changes to your itinerary as you wish, choosing to stop early or push on as the mood takes you.

Even if tramping alone, you are only rarely entirely on your own. There will almost certainly be other trampers out on the track with you and you all congregate in the same huts at the day's end.

Tramping is a remarkably social pastime that enables you to interact with like-minded individuals and the striking things you see and do on the way are usually enough to spark a conversation.

For most, the ideal way to tramp is in small, independent groups. This way you retain your freedom to do as you please, will minimize your impact on the countryside, are far less likely to disturb flora or fauna unduly and you improve your chances of seeing various species.

You are also safer, since if one person gets into difficulties there will be others immediately on hand to help.

Guided walks
Most people sign up for a guided walk because it is perceived as easier to arrange than an independent tramp. Some, however, may be doing so because they don't realize that arranging an independent tramp is equally straightforward.

Others join guided walks for the companionship, higher level of comfort and the security of being led by someone who has been there before.

The main drawback to joining a guided walk is the cost. It can be a substantially more expensive way of seeing exactly the same tract of wilderness.

For example, an independent walker will expect to pay around NZ$200 for their Milford Track experience, whilst joining a guided group can cost in the region of NZ$1300-1500.

Although most tramping groups will stay in the same accommodation as the independent walkers, there are exclusive, private lodges for guided groups on the Routeburn and Milford tracks which provide a degree of luxury never seen in a hut run by the Department of Conservation.

The divide between guided and independent walkers is most pronounced on the Milford Track where even the emergency shelters are split between the two.

Tramping agencies
There are several agencies in New Zealand who can organize a Great Walk for you. For all the relevant prices, dates of departure and to find out more about what each company offers, contact them directly.

On North Island
Adrift Guided Outdoor Adventures (tel 07-892 2751,website www.adriftnz .co.nz; PO Box 19, National Park Village) Organises one- to five-day tramps in Tongariro National Park. Also leads one- to six-day canoe trips on the Whanganui River or can organise jet-boat excursions.
New Zealand Nature Safaris (tel 025-360268 or in NZ tollfree tel 0800-697232, website www.hikingnewzealand.com; PO Box 93, Lyttelton 8033) Runs four-day tramps around Tongariro National Park, where you stay in DOC huts.
Walking Legends (NZ tollfree tel 0800-925569, website www.walkinglegends .com; PO Box 267, Whakatane) Runs four-day circuits around Lake Waikaremoana and four-day hikes on the Tongariro Circuit, in addition to multi-day tramps exploring Te Urewera National Park.

On South Island
Abel Tasman Kayaks (tel 03-527 8022 or in NZ tollfree tel 0800-732529, website www.abeltasmankayaks.co.nz; Main Rd, Marahau) Specialist operator offering half- and multi-day outings on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track incorporating tramping and kayaking (see box p179).
Bush and Beyond (tel 03-528 9057, website www.bushandbeyond.co.nz; PO Box 376, Motueka) Focuses on five-day/five-night tramps on the Heaphy Track but also operates a guided day trip on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track.
Kahurangi Guide Walks (tel 03-525 7177, website www.abel-tasman-track.co.nz; Dodson Rd, Takaka) Operates one- to five-day guided walks on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track but also leads five-day outings on the Heaphy Track and a number of half- and multi-day tramps elsewhere in the region.
Kiwi Wilderness Walks (tel 03-442 6017 or in NZ tollfree tel 0800-733549, website www.nzwalk.com; PO Box 2125, Queenstown) Probably the best for organised group tramps on Stewart Island.
Real Journeys (tel 0800-656 501, website www.realjourneys.co.nz; Te Anau). Runs guided day walks along an 11km stretch of the Milford Track.
Southern Wilderness (tel 03-545 1308, website www.heaphytracknz.com; PO Box 1821, Nelson). Offers a range of tramps on the Heaphy Track and also leads trips to the Nelson Lakes region.
Ultimate Hikes (tel03-441 1138 or in NZ tollfree tel 0800-659255, website www .milfordtrack.co.nz; PO Box 259, Queenstown) Arranges guided Milford tramps lasting five days/four nights as well as guided three-day/two-night treks on the Routeburn Track. Both tramps are all-inclusive, Queenstown to Queenstown trips and involve staying in private, guided walks accommodation. Also runs 'Encounter' day walks on stretches of each track for people short of time. Its ‘Classic’ eight-day/seven-night tramp combines both routes.
Wilsons Abel Tasman (tel 03-528 2027, in NZ tollfree tel 0800-223582 or websitewww.abeltasman.co.nz; 265 High St, Motueka) Lead one- to five-day tramps on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track, staying in private lodges and using boats to transfer your gear. Can also arrange sea kayaking (see box p179).

On Stewart Island
Stewart Island Wilderness Walks (tel 03-226 6739, website www.sigw.co.nz; PO Box 108, Halfmoon Bay) Personalised guiding service exploring elements of the island's history and wildlife in the course of half-, one- or two-day outings.

Tramping clubs
Because tramping is such a popular pastime in New Zealand, a number of clubs have developed. Some have quite long and illustrious histories.

If you are inclined to join some sort of group but still want to tramp independently these can be a good alternative to the tramping agencies.

The Federated Mountain Club of New Zealand (PO Box 1604; tel 04-233 8244, website www.fmc.org.nz) is located in Wellington. It is a national association of more than 100 tramping clubs that can be found throughout New Zealand. The website has the largest list of clubs in the country posted on it and some 14,000 members. Some of the main clubs include the Auckland Tramping Club (website www.aucklandtramping.org.nz), the Wellington Tramping and Mountaineering Club (website www.wtmc.org.nz), Nelson Tramping Club (website www.nelsontrampingclub .orcon.net.nz) and and Massey University Alpine Club (website www.massey.ac.nz/muac). New Zealand Alpine Club (website www.alpineclub.org.nz) is one of the oldest and most respected clubs of its kind in the world.

WHEN TO GO

It is possible to visit New Zealand at almost any time of year. Summer and winter temperatures vary by only about 10C across much of the country.

There are regional variations in temperature, with the south generally being cooler.

The areas of the country at higher altitude are also likely to be cooler, of course, and to experience more severe weather.

New Zealand's seasons are the reverse of those in the Northern Hemisphere, which means that the warmest months are December to February whilst the coldest are June to August.

However, if you are travelling to New Zealand with the intention of tramping some of the Great Walks there a few things to take into consideration. During periods of good weather the Great Walks are safe and passable.

Unpredictable and highly changeable weather can cause problems, though, as the sudden onset of bad weather can make a track more hazardous or even impassable.

Furthermore, it is not uncommon for some of the tracks in the mountains to experience a drop in temperature of up to 10C in as many minutes.

Although you can tramp some of the tracks all year round, such as those at the top of South Island like the Abel Tasman Coast Track, some of the higher altitude routes are closed during the winter season as snow tends to make certain sections impassable.

This is particularly true for those Great Walks found in Fiordland, namely the Routeburn, Milford and Kepler tracks. Equally, rain can turn parts of Stewart Island into a quagmire at certain times of year, making the Rakiura track more of a struggle to complete.

If you wish to give yourself the most flexibility and choice over which Great Walk to undertake, the best time to visit is in the summer season, from December to April.

Within this time the tracks are at their busiest over Christmas, during the New Zealand school holidays which run from early/mid December to the end of January, and again over the Easter holidays.

Therefore, the ideal time to visit is probably February to March, when the crowds have thinned slightly but the weather remains stable and summery.

BUDGETING AND COSTS

The New Zealand economy is currently fairly stable but, having enjoyed high growth in recent years, it slipped towards recession at the tail end of 2008 in line with many of the world's economies affected by the global credit crunch. However, despite a relatively strong New Zealand dollar (which means that New Zealand is no longer the bargain destination it once was), things will still seem comparatively cheap compared to prices in Europe or the USA.

The goods and services are all of a very high standard, so you receive excellent value for money.

It is possible to live relatively cheaply whilst travelling through New Zealand. The country is set up for backpacking with hordes of cheap hostels, a good communication network and a reasonably priced public transport system.

Activities cost a little more, and how much of these you do will affect how expensive or otherwise your trip becomes. A realistic budget estimate of the daily cost of living in New Zealand is NZ$70-90. This sum allows you to eat, travel, put a roof over your head and enjoy some of New Zealand's many attractions.

If planning on more activities then expect to spend NZ$120-150 per day. Stay in a decent B&B or hotel or eat out at a better class of restaurant and you can easily spend in excess of NZ$300 per day.

Accommodation ranges in price depending on the level of comfort. Tent pitches on campsites cost around NZ$10, dorm rooms between NZ$20 and NZ$27, whilst simple double rooms go for NZ$40-70.

Motel units are a little pricier at NZ$100-150 and B&B-style accommodation will set you back NZ$70 and $180. An international standard hotel charges anything from NZ$150-350 for a room.

Obviously where you eat will also affect your budget. The food is generally robust fodder and excellent value. Supermarkets are usually well stocked and reasonably priced.

Takeaway prices range from NZ$5 to NZ$15 and meals in cafés or pubs cost upwards of NZ$15-25; restaurants will charge NZ$40 or more for a three-course meal.

Travelling through New Zealand is relatively easy and cheap since it is a fairly small country and the prime destinations are all a short hop from one another.

However, once you've made several short trips the costs start to mount up. If you choose to forsake buses in favour of airplane tickets, no matter how ‘lo-cost’, then you must expect to pay slightly more.

Activities and one-off trips are the major expenses. The costs for these activities vary considerably and it is worth shopping around. New Zealand's adrenaline sports such as bungy-jumping and parachuting will set you back around NZ$50 and NZ$250 respectively.

ROUTE OPTIONS

New Zealand is justifiably well known amongst walkers as an outstanding destination renowned for its remarkable diversity of scenery and land-forms. The Great Walks take you to some of the most remote, beautiful places in the country.

It is very difficult to compare the walks with each other since they are incredibly varied and your experience of them can be affected by so many factors: the time of year, the weather, the people that you encounter and share the track with and your own mood will determine how much you enjoy the various routes.

Different Great Walks have different defining characteristics but between them they encompass some of the finest tramping routes in the world.

Facts and figures
A considerable number of people descend on the New Zealand countryside with the intention of tackling the Great Walks. However, some walks are more popular than others.

Attracted at least in part by its accessibility and its reputation for being easy, around 30,000 trampers tackle the Abel Tasman Coast Track each year, with another 150,000 visiting on day trips.

The Routeburn Track is the second most popular route, with 14,500 independent trampers each year.

The two other Great Walks in Fiordland are also very popular: 14,000 independent trampers complete the Milford Track, whilst approximately 8500 people walk the Kepler Track.

Around 5000 people follow the Tongariro Northern Circuit although many, many more tackle the walk's most spectacular section, the one-day Tongariro Crossing.

The Heaphy and Lake Waikaremoana tracks each attract around 5000-5500 trampers every year, while only 4000 canoeists paddle the length of the Whanganui River Journey, although plenty more complete part of it or simply enjoy day trips.

The Rakiura Track is comparatively deserted, with only 1500-2000 people travelling to Stewart Island to tramp the path.

Pros and cons of each route
The enchanting Lake Waikaremoana Track lies amidst a vast unbroken mantle of forested ridges and valleys.

This moderate three- to four-day, 46km tramp skirts the moody waters of Lake Waikaremoana, climbs the precipitous bluffs of the Panekiri Range and meanders through eerie moss-draped forest.

The track can be walked in either direction and offers an insight into an isolated, unspoilt area. Its remoteness means it's difficult to get there, but is also part of its appeal.

The three- to four-day, 49km Tongariro Northern Circuit cuts an arc around the perfect cone of Mt Ngauruhoe through probably the most spectacular and colourful part of Tongariro National Park, a volcanically active ‘moonscape’ of tortured rock, dramatic lava formations and craters.

The hordes of people pouring over the Tongariro Crossing are the only drawback to this unique tramp.

The Whanganui River Journey is not a traditional tramp – or, indeed, a tramp at all. Instead, it is an exhilarating 145km canoe trip that takes up to five days to complete, taking you through stunning scenery past fascinating relics of Maori and colonial history. it's an intriguing alternative to tramping.

Droves of people are attracted to the gorgeous golden beaches and granite coastline of the Abel Tasman Coast Track. Much of the three- to five-day, 51km track involves leisurely strolls along coarse sand beaches, making it ideal for trampers of all abilities.

Huts and campsites are positioned alongside picturesque coves and inlets. This is the easiest, safest, sunniest Great Walk, although it is also the busiest. Not a track for those who don't like crowds, this is nonetheless coastal walking at its finest.

The 82km Heaphy Track is the longest and most diverse tramp of all the Great Walks. This moderately hard, four- to five-day tramp climbs through lush forest, winds across haunting alpine downs and then drops to the rugged west coast where it ambles alongside the pounding Tasman Sea.

Each end of the track is remote, making it relatively difficult to reach and leave, especially by private transport. The west-coast weather is also highly unpredictable.

The Routeburn Track usually takes two or three days. The 33km traverse linking Mt Aspiring and Fiordland national parks is gloriously remote. The encircling panorama of snow-capped mountains is astonishing and the serenity and stillness of Lake Mackenzie and Lake Harris is exquisite.

The accumulation of natural beauty and the endless variations of shape and colour make this an exceptional tramp. However, the track is exposed in places and in bad weather can become treacherous. You must also book the track in advance.

The world-famous Milford Track is 53.5km long and takes four days to complete. It enjoys enormous popularity so you must book well in advance in order to secure a place.

Located in the heart of dramatic Fiordland National Park it is a relatively easy tramp save for the testing climb to Mackinnon Pass and the steep descent into the Arthur Valley.

The glacier-gouged scenery is breathtaking and the views from the top of the pass awe-inspiring. Although the track is heavily regulated and over-popular, it has a well-deserved, worldwide reputation. It is, however, the only track where camping is not allowed.

Fiordland's third Great Walk, the 67km, three- to four-day Kepler Track is unique in its recent custom-made design as a circular route. This is one of the best-planned Great Walks.

It circles Lake Te Anau before climbing stiffly onto Mt Luxmore, from where it makes an amazing alpine traverse of the Kepler tops before dropping to the tranquil shores of Lake Manapouri. The sheer immensity of the landscape and mountain splendour is breathtaking.

The track is quite tough and an increase in popularity means that a booking scheme has been introduced.

The 36km, two- to three-day Rakiura Track is an appealing introduction to the subtle charms and unspoilt wilderness of Stewart Island.

This relatively simple circular track passes through several areas of historical interest including settlements occupied by Maori and Europeans.

This truly remarkable place is sufficiently isolated to ensure far fewer trampers than on other Great Walks. However, it can also suffer from atrocious weather that turns the track into a complete quagmire.

New Zealand - The Great Walks

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