The mere mention of Syria’s capital arouses a whole host of romantic images and memories and if this is the first stop on your journey it won’t let you down. The modern city stretches for miles into the foothills of the Jibal Lubnan Ash Sharq-iyeh (anti-Lebanon) Mountains but the Old City is tight, compact and full of treasures. Allow yourself at least two days to explore and a day for the trip to Bosra.
HISTORY
Just how Damascus got its name is a constant source of argument. Some say the name came from Damaskos, son of Hermes, others from Damas, who accompanied Dionysus and was given a ‘skene’ by him, hence ‘Damascene’. Cain and Abel are also said to have fought in the surrounding mountains and Abraham is supposed to have hidden in one of the caves here but as you would expect from a place that calls itself the oldest continually inhabited city in the world, the number of anecdotes is fairly comprehensive, even without the Saul/Paul conversion.
Whatever the case, there is evidence of a settlement here as long ago as 5000BC and by the end of the second millennium BC the Aramean King, Rezon, had made it his capital. Alexander took it for his empire in the 4th century BC and the Nabataeans (an Arabic tribe) seized it in 87 BC, yet the Romans preferred to destroy it and build Bosra as their new capital.
It remained in Roman/Byzantine hands until 635AD when the Muslim armies of the south overran the region. Following the dispute over Mohammed’s successor, the Syrian governor, Mu’awiyah, was able to seize power and establish his Umayyad dynasty with Damascus as his capital; it was during this period that most of Damascus’s outstanding buildings were erected.
Over the following centuries the city earned itself a nickname which is still used today – ‘Cham’. The word comes from the Bedouin word for a facial beauty spot: chamay. For the Bedouin riding in from the Syrian Desert, the oasis of Damascus stood out against the backdrop of the mountains like one such beauty spot and they gave it this name as a mark of their joy for safely crossing the desert.
Richard Burton (the explorer rather than the actor) was British Ambassador here in the 19th century before his daring undercover journey to Mecca.
Damascus today
Damascus has over four million inhabitants but most are found in the New City, which has engulfed the old. Indeed, such a tightly packed Old City was (and is) totally impractical for cars so in the second half of the 20th century the middle and upper classes moved away into the roomier suburbs, leaving what were once magnificent houses to be chopped up into living quarters for four or five families. No one would begrudge a family the right to a roof over its head but this situation is a reflection of the government’s reluctance/failure to intervene and protect the Old City. Having said that, the city is a World Heritage Site.
WHAT TO SEE
The National Museum
The museum is laid out around a beautiful courtyard full of various archaeological finds brought to the capital over the years and it makes a very pleasant spot to sit and watch the world go by. Inside, if you go immediately to your left, the first room you enter has remnants of Chinese silk found at Palmyra and dating from the 1st century BC, so you can feel that you are hot on the Silk Road trail! There are plenty of other impressive artefacts all well laid out and with English labels but the highlight for many is the synagogue at the back, brought from Dura Europus on the Euphrates and rebuilt piece by piece. It was this synagogue that the Jews built after being exiled from Jerusalem by Nebuchadnezzar (Cyrus the Great famously liberated the Jews from Nebuchadnezzar in 579BC and gave them lands in his empire; he even married a Jew, Esther, of Biblical fame). It was the priests from this time who first sat down to create a definitive history of the Jews based on their oral traditions, myths and legends, mixed in with those of other tribes in the region. The finished product was the Old Testament.
Entrance to the museum costs S£300. It is open 09.00-18.00 (to 16.00 in winter) Wed-Mon. The entrance is on Qasr al Heir al Gharbi.
Takiyya as Suleimaniyya
This beautiful old mosque and pilgrims’ hostel was designed by Sinan, Suleiman the Magnificent’s – indeed, the entire Ottoman empire’s – outstanding architect; he would later build the great Suleiman Mosque in Istanbul. The Takiyya now houses a craft market and small Army Museum but the building itself is the main attraction.
The Old City
The Old City is fantastic and surrounding it is a massive city wall. As you come in from the west you will only see reconstructed sections and the renovation work around the citadel. Around the east side, however, are quite a few original sections but they are currently in a state of neglect. Have a walk around the walls if you can (there is no dedicated path) and check out the many beautiful gates (there are more remaining in the northern sections than the southern).
The Syrians, like many Arabs, are very private people when it comes to their family and their houses, so for much of the day you will see only whitewashed walls interspersed with snatches of the life behind them – which is a shame, as some of the old Damascene houses in the city are fantastic (the tourist office has a list of houses recently restored and made open to the public).
The government’s attitude to preservation in the Old City is epitomized at the far end of the Souq al Hamidiyya, where the shops and the houses beside the Roman-era Jupiter Temple use the columns as part of their supporting structure.
Umayyad Mosque
Built in 705 AD, this was intended to be the world’s greatest mosque and along with the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem it stands as one of the most important Muslim sites in the region. The three minarets rise above the Old City and inside the courtyard the renovated green mosaics (made of glass rather than tiles) are tremendous. Inside the mosque is the tomb of John the Baptist, while out the back is another courtyard with a small museum and the tomb of Saladin, the Islamic hero who defeated the Crusaders. Entrance to the complex is a compulsory S£50 for non-Muslims but this includes a useful booklet guide.
Al Adiliyya and Az Zahiriyya madrassahs
Go inside the school and the library of Az Zahiriyya (which the caretaker will open for a small tip) and you will be amazed at the collection of books inside, although saddened at their precarious state. Baibars, the great Mameluke sultan, is also buried here. In Al Adiliyya, opposite, it is hard to tell whether they are restoring it or knocking it down but at least the work gives you a real glimpse of how the original tile-work has been covered by layer after layer of plaster and paint over the years. Fortunately, it is still there waiting to be rediscovered.
Azem Palace
In 1749 when this palace (S£300; Wed-Mon 09.00-18.00, to 16.00 in winter) was built, Damascus was a clear case of black and white: black from the volcanic and basalt rock, white from limestone. Nowhere is this more beautifully illustrated than in Azem Palace, which shows how the wealthy houses were built in days gone by.
As’ad Pasha Khan
The khans of Damascus tend to date from after the heyday of the route and often from the 18th century, as this one does. The design has hardly changed in two thousand years, however, so this khan still offers a reasonable glimpse of the Silk Road’s past. As’ad Pasha Khan, like most khans in the region, is right in the middle of the city and like the Azem Palace it is a classic from the Damascene ‘Black and White’ school. Nowadays it holds concerts and cultural events and when we were there it also held a fascinating collection of old photographs of the city.
Others
Sayyida Ruquyya Mosque (dedicated to the daughter of Hussein, son of Ali, leader of the Shi’ites) is gaudy in the extreme compared to Umayyad Mosque but get used to the shiny mirrors on the inside because there are more to come in Iran and, by the time you get to Mashad, you will realize this is a common theme.
Mark Twain wrote that ‘As long as there is the river, there will be Damascus’ but, unfortunately, the Barada river is suffering heavily from the recent lack of rain and is nothing like the sight it was in Twain’s day. Your best views of it are in the north-west of the city.
Of the many hammams (see box p105) in the Old City where you can get a Turkish bath, Hammam Nur ed-Din is set in a magnificent building and is the most user-friendly (Souq al Bzouriyya; open daily 09.00-23.00; S£240 for the works; men only). Women will struggle to find a good Turkish bath but try Hammam Bakri in the Christian Quarter (Kanayet al Hattab St; S£190).
In the Christian Quarter, Saint Paul’s Chapel is a modern structure but it marks the spot where he supposedly escaped over the city walls by being let down in a basket. The Chapel of Saint Ananias sits in what is thought to be the cellar of this early disciple’s house. This quarter is also where you are more likely to be allowed into the courtyards of the old Damascene houses, many of which have often been converted into small shops, bars and restaurants.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION [tel code 011]
Orientation and services
The Old City is small and easy to walk around in a few hours, as is the heart of the New City, so there is no need to worry about local transport. Taxis, if needed, are plentiful. The city is also very safe, although whether this is because there are so many secret policemen about is open to debate.
There is a small tourist information office near the National Museum and a larger one north of Saahat Yousef al Azmeh Square. Many Internet cafés have sprung up in the capital; they come and go but Martyr’s Square is always home to one or two. There are several places to exchange foreign currency as well as numerous branches of CBS (see p76).
You shouldn’t need a travel agent in Syria unless you are buying a plane ticket home but if you do Chamtour (tel 223 2300; web www.chamhotels.com), inside Cham Palace Hotel, and Silk Road Travel and Tourism (tel 223 0500; web www.dm.net.lb/ silkroad/) on Fardos St are reliable.
The Immigration Office (open only in the mornings – apply one day and pick up the next) is west of Baramke bus station on Filasteen St; you need three photos and S£25. The Turkish Embassy is at 58 Ziad bin Abi Soufian St, in the north-west of the city. The Iranian Embassy (Autostraad al Mezze) is not recommended as its service is slow, unreliable and 4km west of the city centre. For visa requirements, see p17.
Damascus’s airport is small and easy to negotiate and you will probably receive more attention from the taxi drivers outside than from the customs officials. Buses into the city centre run every half-hour and take 45 minutes. They will drop you right in the middle of the New City and, whichever hotel you pick, it should be within walking distance. Buses to the airport leave from the same place (see map p119).
If you are coming into/leaving from Harasta bus station, take one of the many microbuses to/from Martyr’s Square; if you are coming into/leaving from Baramke bus station you can walk to/from the same square in about 20 minutes.
Where to stay
As you will spend nearly all your time in the Old City it makes sense to stay as close to it as possible, although actually staying inside is not really an option as there are very few places which allow foreign guests.
Al Haramein Hotel (tel 231 9489; S£395/Db, S£175/dorm, S£100/roof) is an old townhouse converted into a hotel on Sharia Bahsa; on a good night it can be very atmospheric but is often full, even out of season, so do book in advance.
Al Rabie (tel 231 8374; S£395/Db), next door, is an almost identical set up and some prefer it (it is certainly beautiful inside), although others complain that the beds aren’t as comfy.
For other cheap options, scout around Martyr’s Square but be warned, this area is also home to most of the local prostitutes and dodgy dealers, so a full inspection of your room is recommended before committing. South of the square, Beirut Hotel (S£300/Db) seems cleaner than most.
Of the many mid-range options, Sultan Hotel (tel 222 5768) on Mousalam al Baroudi St has doubles for US$30 and French Tower Hotel (tel 231 4000) on 29 May St has doubles for US$35. Both get good reports for clean, comfortable rooms and friendly service.
The top end of the market is being added to every year but the Chamtour group have three five-star options, of which Cham Palace (tel 223 2300; US$160/Db) on Maysaloun St is the most central and, with its restaurants, bars and swimming pool, is generally regarded as the best in town. However, Omayyad Hotel (tel 221 7700; web www.omayyadhotel.net; US$105/ Db) has perhaps the most character.
Where to eat
Martyr’s Square has the usual collection of kebabis, if you’re looking for a cheap snack but none is particularly good.
The falafel and mezze in Al Kamal are very good as are the various Western dishes (at very reasonable prices) but no alcohol is served here. It is, however, worth paying a little extra and sampling some of the excellent restaurants on offer in the Old City (particularly the Christian Quarter).
On ad Dawamneh St, Elissar (tel 542 4300; dinner for two from around S£800) offers the finest dining in the Old City and is very popular (it’s a good idea to book), if a little expensive; you can’t beat the setting and few are disappointed with its traditional Syrian cuisine. Al Khawali (off Straight St) is an excellent example of a fine old Damascene house converted into a restaurant. For a less formal arrangement, go to the two coffee houses below the eastern gate of Umayyad Mosque. These are where you’re most likely to bump into fellow travellers and locals as everybody enjoys a couple of hours sipping coffee and sucking on hubble-bubbles (see box p81). Food is available from the stalls next door.
Entertainment
For nightlife, you are best off in the Christian Quarter where alcohol is more readily available: Piano Bar (Hanamia St) is pleasant but expensive; Oxygen (nr Bab Touma St) is where the local trendies hang out. Marmar (Dawamneh St) is the closest thing to a nightclub and is big at weekends.
Back in Martyr’s Square, The Karnak Bar is held up as the big drinking den and perhaps if there is a group of you it could be fun but make sure you get blind drunk as quickly as everybody else or you might wake up to the fact that you are sitting on plastic chairs and tables in the Syrian equivalent of a motorway service station.
A better option in the New City is the Damascus Workers Club (An Nadi al Umal) where you can eat and drink to your heart’s content in a large garden. Alternatively, there are some good off-licences on the south side of Martyr’s Square where you can buy a few bottles and retire to the courtyard of your hotel. There is a cinema showing English-language films across the road from the Cham Palace.
Things to buy
Souq Al Hamidiyya, at the entrance to the Old City, is one of the best places in the world to buy gold, if you know what you are doing. All the gold sold here is 22 carat, rather than the 9-, 12- and 18-carat you see in Europe. The other notable souvenir on offer is, of course, damask, which is cloth embroidered on both sides to give it a rich heavy feel. Straight St is also worth a look for souvenirs.
Moving on
Direct buses from Damascus’s Harasta bus station (about 6km north-west of the city) to Palmyra (4hrs/S£100) run on most days, otherwise you must go via Homs (2hrs) and change there. Buses also run regularly to Hama (21/2hrs), Aleppo (5hrs) and even Antakya and Istanbul. Ignore the touts and use one of the more reputable operators (Karnak – the state operator – is cheap but slow; Qadmous, Al Ahliah and Al Rayan are the recommended private operators).
Minibuses and share-taxis regularly run both of the Homs–Damascus and Homs–Palmyra routes and, even with the necessary change, they are often quicker than the buses. They leave from outside Baramke bus station (see map p119).
Trains are slow and impractical although there are international services to Amman and Tehran!
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