ACCOMMODATION
The South Downs lie in a populous area so there are plenty of villages and towns within easy reach of the Way, most of which offer accommodation for the walker. However, the Way generally follows the high ground along the top of the South Downs escarpment while the villages lie at the foot of the hills. This tends to leave the walker with a small detour to reach a bed at the end of each day. Bear this in mind when calculating times and distances from the maps in Part 4. As a general rule it is a good idea to allow an extra hour each day for the walk to and from your accommodation.
Camping
Unfortunately, there is little to no opportunity for wild camping on the South Downs so campers will have to rely on organized campsites of which there are few. Refer to the itinerary chart for campers on p27 to organize a schedule. Most of these campsites charge from £3 to £6 per camper. Some of the more complex, organized sites have showers and washing facilities while others are merely a place to pitch a tent in the grass.
It is difficult to arrange a camping trip along the length of the Downs without being forced for one or two nights into more solid accommodation. Those who have the urge to camp in greater isolation where there is no recognized site may find it worthwhile asking a landowner for permission to set up camp.
Those who do camp will certainly appreciate the experience: the pampered comforts of a bed and breakfast are outweighed by the chance to sleep under the stars and be woken by the sun, should it happen to be showing.
Hostels and camping barns
There are just four youth hostels within easy reach of the Way and all are between Arundel and Alfriston. However, a new hostel should be open in Eastbourne by 2008 (see p165). Despite the name, anybody of any age can join the YHA. This can be done at any hostel or by contacting the Youth Hostels Association of England and Wales (tel 0870-770 8868, web www.yha.org.uk). The cost of a year’s membership is £15.95 per year (£9.95 for anyone under 26). Having secured your membership, youth hostels are easy to book, either online or by ringing each individual hostel separately. Each hostel has a drying room, shower and a fully equipped kitchen. Telscombe (see p142) is self-catering only but both it and Truleigh Hill (see p124) have a shop selling basic groceries. The others offer breakfast, a packed lunch and an evening meal. The Arundel hostel has good entertainment facilities as well as internet access; Alfriston also has the latter.
There is an independent hostel located near East Meon called Wetherdown Hostel (p88) and two camping barns; the first is run by the National Trust near Bignor Hill with the charming name of Gumber Bothy (p105) and the other at the Foxhole Campsite in Exceat (p152).
Bed and breakfast
Some B&Bs can be quite luxurious and come at a price but in our experience all the Downs walker really wants is a warm bed and a hot bath. For this reason most of the B&Bs listed in this guide are recommended because of their usefulness to the walker and convenience to the Way, not for how many stars the tourist board has awarded them.
Bed and breakfast owners are often proud to boast that all rooms are en suite. This enthusiasm for private facilities has led proprietors to squeeze a cramped shower and loo cubicle into the last spare corner of the bedroom. Not having an en suite room is sometimes preferable as you may get sole use of a bathroom across the corridor and a hot bath is just what you need after a day’s walking – and you will also probably save a few pounds.
You may find it hard to find establishments with single rooms. Twin rooms and double rooms are often confused but a twin room usually comprises two single beds which can either be pushed together for a couple or kept separate. A double room has one double bed. Family rooms are for three or more people and usually consist of a double bed and a single or three single beds.
Most B&Bs do of course provide a hefty cooked breakfast as part of the rate though some now also offer a lighter continental-style breakfast. Some also provide a packed lunch or an evening meal but you will need to give them advance warning and there will be an extra charge. Most B&Bs, however, are close enough to a pub or restaurant but if not the owner may give you a lift to and from the nearest eating place. Most B&Bs operate a non-smoking policy.
Rates B&Bs in this guide vary from around £20 per person for the most basic accommodation to over £35 for the most luxurious, en suite places. Most charge around £25 per person. Remember that many places do not have single rooms and usually charge a supplement of between £5 and £15 for a single person in a double or twin room. Prices can be less during the winter months and if you are on a budget you could always ask to go without breakfast which will usually result in a lower price.
Booking You should always book your accommodation because of the competition for beds in summer and the distinct possibility that the place is closed in winter. It is often possible to book online but if not phone the establishment. When booking check the rate and facilities and always let the owner know if you need to cancel so that they can free the bed for someone else. You may be asked to pay a deposit; this is usually 25-50%.
Guesthouses, hotels, pubs and inns
Guesthouses are usually more sophisticated than bed and breakfasts, offering evening meals and a lounge for guests; rates are around £30-40 per person. Pubs and inns offer bed and breakfast of a medium to high standard and have the added advantage, of course, of having a bar downstairs, so it’s not far to stagger back to bed. However, the noise from tipsy punters below your room might prove a nuisance if you want an early night. Prices usually range from £20 to £30 per person per night.
Hotels are usually aimed more at the motoring tourist rather than the muddy walker and the price (£40 to £50 per person) is likely to put off the budget traveller. A few hotels have been included in the trail guide for those feeling they deserve at least one night of luxury during their trip.
WHEN TO GO
The south-east of England has probably the best climate in a country maligned for its fickle weather. By best climate I mean not too much rain and more hours of sunshine than other parts of the UK. The route can be followed at any time of year but clearly the chances of enjoying good weather do depend on the season.
SEASONS
Spring
A typical spring is one of sunshine and showers. From March to May a day walking on the Downs may involve getting drenched in a short sudden shower only to be dried off by warm sunshine a few minutes later. However, the weather can vary enormously from year to year, sometimes with weeks of pleasantly warm sunny weather and in other years days of grey drizzle. In general this is a great time to be on the Downs. Walker numbers are low and the snowdrops, bluebells and primroses decorate the bare woodland floors.
Summer
It can get surprisingly hot and sunny in the summer but again the weather can vary from one year to the next. Always be prepared for wet weather but also be confident of enjoying some balmy summer days too. Occasionally it can be a touch too hot for walking. This can be a problem as there is not much water on the Downs so bring plenty of full bottles. Visitor numbers are high at this time of year, as one would expect, so it can be a little difficult to enjoy a solitary day on the Way. The hills can look quite colourful in summer with wild flowers in bloom in the meadows, red poppies among the corn and fields of bright yellow oil seed rape. Hay-fever sufferers may not agree that this is such a good thing. However, everyone seems to be in a good mood and the pubs are brimming with all sorts of folk, from fellow walkers to country gents. The big advantage of walking in the summer is that it remains light until well after nine in the evening so there is never any rush to finish a day’s walk.
Autumn
Autumn is probably the season when one can reliably expect to be rained on. The weather tends to be characterized by low-pressure systems rolling in from the Atlantic one after another, bringing with them prolonged spells of rain, mist and strong winds. On the positive side those who enjoy a bit of peace and quiet will find very few fellow walkers out and about at this time of year so you can enjoy the raw elements alone.
Furthermore, it is not all rain and wind. Sometimes the weather can surprise you with a day of frost and cold sunshine that can make a day on the Way a real treat. It’s important to remember that some businesses shorten their opening hours at this time of year or even close all together.
Winter
Southern England does not experience as many cold snowy winters as it used to some ten to twenty years ago. Winter these days is usually relatively mild with wet weather and occasional spells of colder, dry weather. Any snow that does fall is usually during the months of January and February. It is more likely the further east you go since it is the south-east corner that gets caught by the snow showers that roll in from the North Sea, when the wind is from the north or east. Many walkers will appreciate winter walking for the wilder weather it offers and the days of lonely walking along the high windswept crest of the Downs. The best days are the cold, frosty days when the air is clear and the views stretch for miles.
Bear in mind that in winter many businesses, particularly in the more remote villages, are closed. It is always wise to call a guesthouse or pub before turning up expecting a bed or dinner.
TEMPERATURE
Generally, temperatures are comfortable all year round. In winter, warmer clothes will be needed as the temperature drops towards and, on occasion, just below freezing. Summer is usually pleasantly warm with temperatures around 16ºC to 23ºC but temperatures as high as the low thirties Celsius do occur on at least a few days during July or August which can make walking on exposed sections of the Way uncomfortable.
RAINFALL
The weather in England is affected mostly by the weather systems that come from the south-west. These are usually low-pressure systems that contain a lot of rain. Rain can and does fall in any month of the year but dry weather is usually more likely in the early summer.
DAYLIGHT HOURS
If walking in autumn, winter and early spring, you must take account of how far you can walk in the available light. Also bear in mind that you will get a further 30-45 minutes of usable light before and after sunrise and sunset depending on the weather.
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