INTRODUCTION
What on earth is all this?
South-East Asia introduction map 9 Map key 10, 11
Using this book
The maps 13 My choices 14
Maps Interpreting a schematic map 12, Interpreting a town map 15
PART 1: PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Preparing for the trip
What you need to pack 17 Money 18 Getting information 19
When to go where 21
Route planning
Visas and visa strategy 25 Borders 25 Road travel 28 Rail travel 28 Main overland routes 28 Boat travel 30 Links to Australia and island South-East Asia 30 Flights 30
Maps
When to go where 23 Mainland South-East Asia 26 Crossing the region times 27 Main overland routes 29 Crossing island South-East Asia 31 Flights worth considering 32
So wheres nice?
Beaches 33 Scuba diving 33 Highlights 34-5 Hill tribes 34 Sex and drugs and rocknroll 37 Crafts and souvenirs 37
PART 2: THAILAND
Introduction
Highlights 38 When to go 41
Practical information
Visas and formalities 42 Money 42 Transport 42 Accommodation 45 Food and drink 45 Staying in touch 47 Shopping 47 Activities 47 Further information 49
Maps
Country map/locator 38 Transport times 43 Bangkok: key transport connections 52 Kao San Road area 53 North of Bangkok 54 Ayutthaya 55 Central Thailand 56 The North 57 The Far North and Chiang Mai 58 The Burma Road 59 Heading East: Bangkok to Trat 60 Phimai, Nang Rong, Khorat 61 South Isaan 62 Ubon Ratchathani and Warin Chamrab, Kantharalak/Prasat Preah Vihear 63 Nong Khai, Sakhon Nakhon 64 That Phanom, Chiang Khan, Nakhon Phanom 64 North Isaan (Mekong hangouts) 65 North Isaan (Udon Thani, Khon Kaen) 66 South Thailand: Beaches and Islands 67 Limestone landscapes: best beaches 68 Rail times (Bangkok to Sungei Kolok) 69 The South 70 Thai/Malaysia border options 71
PART 3: LAOS
Introduction
Highlights 74 When to go 75
Practical information
Visas and formalities 75 Money 76 Transport 77 Accommodation 79 Food and drink 79 The drug scene 80 Staying in touch 80 Further information 82
Maps
Country map 73 Flights to Lao regional airports 78 Vientiane and the Friendship Bridge 83 Vientiane to Louang Prabang 84 Louang Prabang and Vang Vieng 85 North Laos 86 Muang Sing, Luang Namtha, Udom Xai, Nang Kio, Muang Kwa, Muang Ngoi 87 South Central Laos 88 Thakhek, Savannakhet, Around Savannakhet, Lak Xao 89 South Laos 90
PART 4: CAMBODIA
Introduction
Highlights 94 When to go 94 Planning tactics 94 Safety 95
Practical information
Visas and formalities 97 Money 97 Transport 98 Accommodation 100 Food and drink 100 Sex and drugs 101 Staying in touch 101 Activities 101 Further information 101
Maps
Country map 93 Map locator 103 Phnom Penh 104 East Cambodia 105 Central Cambodia 106 Bangkok to Angkor 107 Battambang, Siem Reap, Angkor 108 Koh Kong: border connections and boat services 109 Takeo, Kampot, Bokor, Ta Prohm, Phnom Chisor, Kep 110 South Cambodia and Sihanoukville 111
PART 5: VIETNAM
Introduction
Highlights 114 Travel tactics 114 When to go 115
Practical information
Visas and formalities 117 Money 117 Transport 117 Accommodation 121 Food and drink 121 Staying in touch 121 Activities 121 Further information 122
Maps
Country map 113 travel times, cafι buses and tours, international connections 119 Hanoi 124 Halong Bay 125 North Vietnam (mountain roads) 126 North Vietnam (mountains and minorities) 127 North Central Vietnam 128 South Central Vietnam 129 Saigon to Nha Trang 130 Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) 131 Mekong Delta transportation 132 Mekong Delta 133
PART 6: YUNNAN (South-west china)
Introduction
Highlights 136 When to go 138
Practical information
Visas and formalities 139 Money 139 Transport 139 Accommodation 141 Traveller meeting places 141 Food and drink 142 Shopping 142 Staying in touch 142 Further information 142
Maps
Country map 135 Looking at Chinese characters 144 Chinese words and phrases 146 Kunming 148 Stone forests: Shilin, Nansa, Jianshui, Yuanyang, Kaiyuan 149 To Hekou: rice terraces and borderlands 150 Routes to Hekou and Vietnam: Gejiu, Hekou 151 Xishuangbanna: Jing Hong, Mengla, Mohan 152 Lijiang, Tiger Leaping Gorge 153 Dali, Xiaguan 154 North Yunnan 155
PART 7: BURMA (MYANMAR)
Introduction
Boycott Burma? 158 Highlights 159 When to go 159
Practical information
Visas and formalities 164 Money 165 Transport 166 Accommodation 169 Food 169 Drink 170 Staying in touch 170 Shopping 170 Activities 171 Further information 171
Maps
Country map (accessible areas) 157 Borders, states and divisions 162/3 Travel times 167 Map locator 175 Yangon 176 Taungoo, Kalaw 177 Inle Lake, Nyaung Shwe, Pindaya, Aungban 178 Inle, Kalaw and roads to Mandalay, Taunggyi 179 Mandalay 180 Central Mandalay, To the far north, Maymyo, Amarapura, Ava 181 Monywa, Mingun, Pakhangyi, Sagaing, Pakokku, Mt Popa 182 Mandalay to Bagan 183 Bagan, Magwe 184 Bagan to Pyay to Yangon 185 Pyay, Pathein, Chaungtha Beach 186 Gulf of Martaban area: Bago 187
PART 8: SINGAPORE
Introduction 188
Practical information
Money 190 Transport 190 Accommodation 190 Staying in touch 191 Shopping 191 Further information and maps 192
Maps
Singapore: Key MRT stations and bus links 189 Central area 191
PART 9: MALAYSIA
Introduction
Highlights 192 When to go 192 Festivals 194
Practical information
Visas and formalities 194 Money 196 Transport 196
Accommodation 198 Food and drink 198 Staying in touch 199 Activities 199 Further information 200
Maps
Peninsular Malaysia map 195 Travel times 197 Southern Peninsular: Malacca, Mersing, Kota Tinggi, Johor Bahru 201 Kuala Lumpur: Centre and travellers area 202 Transport: Kuala Lumpur and around 203 Georgetown, Kota Bharu, Kuala Terengganu, Kuantan, Taiping, Marang, Ipoh, Kuala Kangsar 204 Peninsular West Coast 205 Jungle train timetable 206 Peninsular East Coast 207 Eastern Malaysia, Brunei 208
PART 10: ISLAND SOUTH-EAST ASIA
BRUNEI DARUSSLAM 209
Visas and formalities 210 Money 210 Accommodation 210 Further information 210
INDONESIA
Introduction
Highlights 212 When to go 217 Festivals 218
Practical information
Visas and formalities 218 Money 218 Transport 219 Accommodation 220 Food and drink 221 Staying in touch 221 Activities 221 Further information 222
Maps
Country map 213
EAST TIMOR
Practical information 223
PHILIPPINES
Introduction
Highlights 225 When to go 226
Practical information
Visas and formalities 228 Money 228 Transport 228 Accommodation 230 Food and drink 230 Staying in touch 230 Activities 230 Further information 230
Maps
Country map 224 Manila 229
INDEX 234
MAP KEY 23940
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